Recent content by gregers

im assuming the original windows fitted up to the plaster line? if its not too deep then wet/pva it and fill it with finish plaster.

and use this stuff to join them together,i no longer use colorfil,but this stuff is the dos m8.

cant see how a blank wont be warranted?as its totally solid.unlike the wheatabix doors.

can you not use door blanks?then relip them,then router out for the fire strips.

could you use some gorilla glue along with some gripfil/silicone and rebrace over night and see?

gripfil or the likes.

sorry,yes unless the rebate has already been precut into the frames then yes router out the doors,as said the hinges pads go underneath the 1 blade of the hinge.i suppose you could take the black strip out and place that under rather then buying the dedicated pads,which iirc are a tad expensive.

should have 3 hinges fitted,and if you really want to go over kill then hinge pads behind the leaves of the hinges. only ever fitted the pads a few times,even on big jobs never been supplied or been picked up on if not fitted.

or build sleeper walls and place the plates on that,making sure you leave gaps for air flow.

beaver

track saw,then a hand saw.but the best suggestion is to remove the silicone and worktop then cut it properly,unless its joined on a masons mitre??

bushboard do 1 aswell,but as above you will always see it.

you may also find some adjusting screws that if tightened will pull the glass down onto the seal a tad better?

hells bells i too only heard 1 shot.

do as above,and think about fitting some pigs ear to the wall side,returning the dado on itself at the top and bottom.