WIRING A SHED

ban-all-sheds · 28 Jul 2015

STUART SIMPSON said:
Cheers for the reply but can you tell whats wrong with the plan.

Yes - it is being devised by someone not competent to do it.

I didnt think i should wire it direct to the busbar. I though it shoukd be on a fuse, what size?

That was answered in post #5. What is the point of you asking questions if you are not going to read the answers?

Is the 6mm cable to heavy going into the loft

TTC talked about that in post #11. What is the point of you coming here if you are not going to read anything which people write?

STUART SIMPSON · 28 Jul 2015

Ban, u are fully qualified and us diyers are not that is how we ask advice that is the point of these forums, there is no need to riducule people and make a **** of them. ******

JohnW2 · 28 Jul 2015

STUART SIMPSON said:
Ban, u are fully qualified and us diyers are not...

No he isn't (and nor am I) - stop jumping to incorrect conclusions. Both of us are as unqualified as you are, but an awful lot more competent.

Kind Regards, John

ban-all-sheds · 28 Jul 2015

STUART SIMPSON said:
there is no need to riducule people and make a **** of them. ******

Nowhere have I ridiculed you.

bernardgreen · 28 Jul 2015

Are we sure this is SWA "steel wire armoured" cable. There is no sign of steel wire armour in the photo of th back of the FCU.

And this raises the question of whether it will be safe ( or even compliant ) to export the earth from the house to the garage.

Are there any service pipes ( gas water oil ) or other extraneous conductive items that enter the garage and may require bonding ?

riveralt · 28 Jul 2015

bernardgreen said:
Are we sure this is SWA "steel wire armoured" cable. There is no sign of steel wire armour in the photo of th back of the FCU.
And this raises the question of whether it will be safe ( or even compliant ) to export the earth from the house to the garage.
Are there any service pipes ( gas water oil ) or other extraneous conductive items that enter the garage and may require bonding ?

I think you may be having one of those moments Bernard

bernardgreen · 28 Jul 2015

Yes a senior moment. It was meant to be a reply to another thread. ( memo to self, only have one tab open at a time )

STUART SIMPSON · 28 Jul 2015

AndyPRK said:
Normally you would wire it with swa cable in the ground
Buried at the correct depth and marked correctly.

Typical fuse would be 16 or 20 a depending on cable used.

so if i change the fuse in the old shower box to 20 amp, run armored cable underground to the shed consumer unit, this would be ok? or could i use 500V Rated NYY-J Hi Tuff Cable overhead?

this is the shed consumer unit: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-2-Way...9b0a1a&pid=100011&rk=1&rkt=10&sd=321815834604

and obviously i would get this checked out by a COMPETENT electrician before BAN makes a smart arse comment, although seeing some COMPETENT electricians work some should be struck off

skotl · 28 Jul 2015

ban-all-sheds said:
STUART SIMPSON said:

But how would you wire it mate.

Click to expand...

With the correct cable type(s), installed in the correct way, and the correct cable sizes to maintain Ib ≤ In ≤ Iz when all the derating factors and voltage drop are taken into account.

But then you already knew that, as you are competent.

Care to tell us what tests you would carry out on the installation - what sequence you'd do them in and at what point you would energise the installation, and for each test what is being measured, why it is important, how you would carry out the test, and with what equipment, and what sort of results you would expect to get if everything was OK?

The thing is this is a far more complex job than you think it is and I can assure you that it involves knowing far more than you think it does.

Asking questions here can be a useful part of a learning process, but they are not a substitute for proper structured studying. The key term there is "learning process" - you cannot learn all the things you need to know just by asking questions here. It isn't structured enough - it won't provide you with a way to progress where each step builds on what you learned before.

You can't carry out a job of this magnitude by asking whatever random questions happen to occur to you. You've already shown that you have some dodgy misconceptions - what if you get something wrong because you have no idea your knowledge is wrong? What if you miss something because you simply have no idea it even exists, and just don't realise you don't know it?

I know I give you a hard time, b-a-s, but this is a great example of what the O-P is asking and a reasonable response that shows why he should not be attempting to do what he is trying to do. I don't want to divert off into a pointless debate but if you could answer like this each time then you would have many more supporters on here rather than detractors.

ban-all-sheds · 28 Jul 2015

STUART SIMPSON said:
so if i change the fuse in the old shower box to 20 amp, run armored cable underground to the shed consumer unit, this would be ok?

Will Ib ≤ 20 ≤ Iz?

this is the shed consumer unit

Completely pointless.

and obviously i would get this checked out by a COMPETENT electrician

You need to find that electrician before you do any work, discuss with him what he is happy for you to do, and ask him all the questions about design, as he will be the one who has to sign the certificate.

And you'll need to ensure that your Building Control department are happy with that arrangement.

skotl · 28 Jul 2015

STUART SIMPSON said:
AndyPRK said:

Normally you would wire it with swa cable in the ground
Buried at the correct depth and marked correctly.

Typical fuse would be 16 or 20 a depending on cable used.

Click to expand...

so if i change the fuse in the old shower box to 20 amp, run armored cable underground to the shed consumer unit, this would be ok? or could i use 500V Rated NYY-J Hi Tuff Cable overhead?

this is the shed consumer unit: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-2-Way-Garage-Consumer-Unit-CW-63A-30mA-RCCB-6A-16A-MCBs/111324009516?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid=222007&algo=SIC.MBE&ao=1&asc=32767&meid=0e308acc540848b3aef22b0c7a9b0a1a&pid=100011&rk=1&rkt=10&sd=321815834604

and obviously i would get this checked out by a COMPETENT electrician before BAN makes a smart arse comment, although seeing some COMPETENT electricians work some should be struck off

I know that it can be difficult to extrapolate, but b-a-s (aka BAN), has your best interest at heart. And the best interests of your immediate family, anyone who visits your home, and anyone who purchases the home in the future.
b-a-s isn't alone in being concerned for your welfare - he raises the question of "competence" and a number of other posters echoed that concern.
Please don't be offended when people mention competence because it has a very specific meaning, from a legal and liability perspective, when we talk about electrical work. I view myself as an extremely competent DIYer in electronics, electrical, mechanical and other disciplines but this doesn't mean that I am legally "competent" to design, construct and test electrical works to the extent that you are describing here.

You can't get this checked out, retrospectively, by an electrician because that is simply not allowed; a single electrician (I'm paraphrasing here, and it could be a company, rather than an individual) needs to be responsible for the design, construction and testing of new electrical circuits).

People here are not trying to have a go at you - not a single person has suggested that it is sensible, legal or compliant, for you to continue this work on your own. When everyone, even b-a-s, disagrees with you then it's time to consider that you may be the one that is wrong.

ericmark · 29 Jul 2015

You have been given the links. What every one looks at is the basic points. 2.5mm² cable does not have a single power rating but unlikely to be 30A. At the reduction in current carrying capacity you need an automatic disconnection unit and the list goes on.

One can't expect a point by point instruction set. This link will take you to the IET Wiring matters 2005 although out of date there is an entry Electrical installations outdoors: a supply to a detached outbuilding If you read and follow the instructions you will not go far wrong.

One of the points raised is how to earth and even for electricians deciding what earthing system to use is not always straight forward. Putting a shed in my back garden is very different to putting one in my friends who's back garden is 20 acres of wood land. And what every system is used it will required some testing.

Read the links and then consider if you want to DIY. If you still want to DIY ask questions but at least the questions will be reasonable and instead of simply you can't do that you will get better if you do it this way.

STUART SIMPSON · 29 Jul 2015

would it be alot easier and simpler to use a rcd fused spur from an existing circuit inside the house to feed the shed which aint going to be used alot tbh with fused spurs in the shed to feed the sockets and a downgraded 5a fused spur for lights

bernardgreen · 29 Jul 2015

As to your choice of "consumer unit"

This one is about 5 pounds ( 20 % ) cheaper
http://www.screwfix.com/p/bg-garage-kit-enclosure-5-module-ip55-40a-rcd-dual-6a-32a-mcb/68849

and made by a reputable company and sold by a reputable company.

The CE marks on the ebay item are suspect in appearance ( the letters are too close together ) It is legal to print the letters C and E like that on anything providing the supplier does not infer in any way that they indicate the item is compliant with E U requirements.

stillp · 31 Jul 2015

And also the consumer unit on ebay claims to comply with a standard that was withdrawn years ago.

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WIRING A SHED

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