New Oven

Chapistan · 29 Jul 2015

Hi all, I'm just fitting a recycled kitchen and would like some advice on wiring a new built in oven.

Consumer unit has a dedicated cooker trip
Outlet blank on wall (never used for cooker) above the gas bayonet socket.
Double switch above worktop, Big red switch designated "cooker" and a normal 13amp socket.

I would like to spur from the blanked outlet with the cooker hood (over gas hob) AND hard-wire the new oven. Replace the Wall switch with a double socket.

From the advice taken so far, this outlet is 30amp and needs to be 13amp for a built in oven. Is it it just a case of replacing the 30amp trip with a a 13amp? Or is this more complicated? Or would there be an easier way, without having to re-tile.

Regards Steve

Iggifer · 29 Jul 2015

You shouldn't replace the cooker outlet for a socket as your cooker circuit is not RCD protected.

The easiest way to connect the cooker (& presumably sparker for the hob) would be to fit a fused 13A spur onto that existing cooker connection unit, cut the plug off the cooker and hardwire it in, jobs a good un

Chapistan · 30 Jul 2015

Iggifer said:
The easiest way to connect the cooker (& presumably sparker for the hob) would be to fit a fused 13A spur onto that existing cooker connection unit, cut the plug off the cooker and hardwire it in, jobs a good un

Thanks, your a star.

PrenticeBoyofDerry · 30 Jul 2015

The easiest/simplest method, would be to change the outlet plate to a single socket outlet plate and just plug in the oven. The plug will protect the flex and appliance with the 13A fuse that will be in it. But if you do not have RCD protection on this circuit, you would be non-compliant to regs.

Not sure what your intentions are for the hob or extractor, I tend to keep the ex-fan off the cooking circuit, just in case you need to still extract and also have the cooking appliances off! You could spur an outlet for the hob from the oven outlet plate, this could be a socket(note RCD protection required) or FCU. Also note any buried cable will also require to comply to safe zones and RCD protection.

Just to add, is there a design reason why you have put the oven next to a corner unit, as I would avoid that. Have checked you can open the oven when the adjoining unit has doors, draws and handles on and visa versa?

EFLImpudence · 30 Jul 2015

The instructions do say min 13A.

Does 30A not satisfy that?

JohnW2 · 30 Jul 2015

EFLImpudence said:
The instructions do say min 13A. Does 30A not satisfy that?

30A was certainly above 13A when I last looked!

Of course, those who believe that an oven can create an overload would probably be concerned about the oven's flex being protected by a 30A OPD!

Kind Regards, John

Chapistan · 31 Jul 2015

PrenticeBoyofDerry said:
Just to add, is there a design reason why you have put the oven next to a corner unit, as I would avoid that. Have checked you can open the oven when the adjoining unit has doors, draws and handles on and visa versa?

Hi PrenticeBoyofDerry, We have been told that we shouldn't have a built-in gas hob on top of the oven?? Not sure why as most standalone cookers do?? Any ways very small kitchen only three 600 units on that side. Choice was by sink or where it is . First thing i checked was the doors

Chapistan · 31 Jul 2015

JohnW2 said:
30A was certainly above 13A when I last looked

Hi JohnW2, we have been told that the 30a is too high for just the oven. Apparently this type of connection is for a standalone cooker all electric.

Chapistan · 31 Jul 2015

Why the regs(i know its for my safety) make it so difficult, i don't know. I've lost confidence now, it will against the law to install a new three pin plug soon.
We have a corgi coming in to do the gas hob, so i will get him to do it, i thinks.Thanks for all the replies

PrenticeBoyofDerry · 31 Jul 2015

The regulations don't make it difficult, they hopefully make it safer electrically. Regrettably pre-2004 domestic electrical work was not governed as it is now, not that is governed that much better these days! But now there is a legal document in place (part P) that requires domestic electrical work to be designed, performed safely and whilst in service there is no potential risks.
Very much like the domestic gas, which you feel happy that a qualified engineer (gas safe not corgi), is performing for you.
You could swap the breaker to the circuit to the other side of the RCCB on you board and still have plug and socket arrangement or have a FCU. But in a safe world this work would require to be tested for safety and compliants anyway.

JohnW2 · 31 Jul 2015

Chapistan said:
JohnW2 said:

30A was certainly above 13A when I last looked

Click to expand...

Hi JohnW2, we have been told that the 30a is too high for just the oven. Apparently this type of connection is for a standalone cooker all electric.

FWIW, that's nonsense. The 32A MCB is there only to protect the cables of the circuit so, assuming cables of the correct size have been used, that's fine (and compliant with regulations) for any oven or cooker (or anything else). There is sometimes a potential complication in that the manufacturer of an appliance may stipulate things about the MCB/fuse - but in your case all they say is "minimum 13A", so that a 32A MCB is acceptable to even the manufacturer.

Kind Regards, John
Edit: typo corrected

JohnW2 · 31 Jul 2015

PrenticeBoyofDerry said:
... tested for safety and complaints anyway.

Small edit needed, I think - has 'predictive text' struck again?

Kind Regards, John

EFLImpudence · 31 Jul 2015

JohnW2 said:
but in your case all they say is "minimum 32A", so that a 32A MCB is acceptable to even the manufacturer.

Another small edit needed?

PrenticeBoyofDerry · 31 Jul 2015

JohnW2 said:
PrenticeBoyofDerry said:

... tested for safety and complaints anyway.

Click to expand...

Small edit needed, I think - has 'predictive text' struck again?

Cheers John, edited as required. It is the laptop, that has mind of it's own!

JohnW2 · 31 Jul 2015

EFLImpudence said:
JohnW2 said:

but in your case all they say is "minimum 32A", so that a 32A MCB is acceptable to even the manufacturer.

Click to expand...

Another small edit needed?

Ah - goes to show that we all do it! Thanks.

Kind Regards, John

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