Diverter Valve leaking on Vaillant EcoTec Plus 831 boiler

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For sure.....allow another week to take you through commercial...

Lol.. What's your view on the diverter valve replacement procedure on this boiler? Do you reckon a novice could do it?

Not expecting to be an expert plumber overnight, just wondering about this specific procedure.
 
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If water gets in the diverter motor it could damage the pcb.

If you take it on you will flood the boiler.
Even if u drain the boiler till the water stops, when you remove the valve a load more water will come out.

Just get it fixed.
I would charge maybe a little less but defo wouldn't take 2 hours
 
My view on diverter valve replacement....
Isolate main supply and loosen off the three screws that hold diverter valve to chassis plate.......fitting new valve reverse procedure.....
Have some towels to hand....you're gonna need em lol...
 
There is no doubt a valid reason why the 'genuine' replacement parts are now made from a different material to the originals... not like the one pictured earlier..

It was not Vaillant's finest hour....

DH
 
If water gets in the diverter motor it could damage the pcb.

If you take it on you will flood the boiler.
Even if u drain the boiler till the water stops, when you remove the valve a load more water will come out.

Just get it fixed.
I would charge maybe a little less but defo wouldn't take 2 hours

Cheers for the info, I might very well have to go the plumber route but you got me wondering how would a plumber prevent water getting into the diverter motor? I mean there must be a sure-fire technique to prevent the boiler from flooding? I think you're assuming that I'd make some sort of common beginners mistake which would result in the boiler flooding, like there's a particular mistake a beginner makes when changing a DV and, boom, the boiler is flooded?
 
My view on diverter valve replacement....
Isolate main supply and loosen off the three screws that hold diverter valve to chassis plate.......fitting new valve reverse procedure.....
Have some towels to hand....you're gonna need em lol...

See that's what I was thinking looking at the DV earlier but I'm not sure if you're being serious? Is it really unscrew, disconnect old, connect new, screw on? Main concern is managing the flow of water from the disconnected valve?
 
They are a doddle but I always spray the back screws with a little penetrating oil and use a flat blade to loosen rather than mangle them with a Phillips as they are so soft. Worth getting an absorbant pad (5l) underneath.
 
They are a doddle but I always spray the back screws with a little penetrating oil and use a flat blade to loosen rather than mangle them with a Phillips as they are so soft. Worth getting an absorbant pad (5l) underneath.

Thanks for the info and tips, glad to hear it's not an impossible task for a beginner. Is the "unscrewing/disconnect old/connect new/screw on" similar to changing a door handle, or door lock (which I've done many times before). I mean it's basically, removing a part and attaching a new part in it's place through screwing/unscrewing? I've also fixed computers before where you remove parts from the computers, unscrew the PCI card, remove the card, and replace it with a new one in the same way. Or same thing with computer RAM. Is the basic procedure to replacing a DV similar to those sort of repairs?

I've closed up the boiler a while ago but I think I remember seeing 2 pipes going into the DV too, are they difficult to remove and reconnect?
 
"gunge, rust like it's 20 years old but as you look upwards at the rest of the boiler, it looks like almost new. There's a pipe also which looks clean and new as it extends to the top of the boiler, but looks really old and limescaled up at the bottom."

Sounds like the chrome gas pipe is corroding and this is usually caused by condensate leaking into boiler, check the plastic corrugated pipe, usually holes where it touches the hot coper flow pipe, I have seen the gas pipe corrode through and leak gas, get a fixed price repair from BG or vaillant, they'll fix all faults for less than £250
 
Gorguruga I think your best bet is to see if Steel is local enough to do it for you, he's a bit of an expert on these sh*tboxes ;)

Call him for a price then tell him that you won't pay more than £60 labour for it - works everytime!! (y)
 

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