Isolator Switch Problem

Hi, I had a new washing machine fitted today, the guy plugged it in then asked if there was another switch, so I then switched on the isolator switch (13a fused switch) and everything was working perfectly.

However, 4 loads of washing later, I went to turn off the isolator and it wouldn't budge. My partner took the front of the switch off and the live wire was blackened.`1

We've never had any problems with the switch prior to this and it was installed about 3 years ago.

Any ideas as to what the problem may be? Could the washing machine be faulty? Should we just replace the switch or is there a risk it could happen again and be a fire hazard? Is there a different switch we should be using?

Just to add, my partner just told me to smell the switch and it has a nasty fishy odour.... this is the smell I smelt after the guys left earlier, I just assumed it was something to do with the washing machine being new....clearly it was the switch burning away

Any help anybody can give regarding this will be gratefully received... neither of us know anything about electrics and we live in a flat with a young baby so definitely don't want to risk any kind of fire

Thanks!

Has it been a while since you used the washing machine socket? Or was it a straight swap.

Burn out switches are almost always caused by a loose connection.

As to which kind of switch you should be using, it depends on the set up you have, but a 13A fused spur is good for every set up.

Given that neither of you are confident with electrics, I would say get someone to come and take a proper look at it. I could just say 'replace the switch and you'll be fine' but the loose connection may not be there.

And given that the live has burnt back, it will need cutting back to clean copper - which may not leave enough cable in the box for a DIYer to re-terminate.

I take it you own the flat? if not, just get the landlord to deal with it ASAP

... and - coincidences do happen.

By far and away the largest part of the load of a W/M is the heater. If the old machine had a hot fill then it may never have stressed the switch to the same extent as the new one.

Iggifer said:

As to which kind of switch you should be using, it depends on the set up you have, but a 13A fused spur is good for every set up.

Click to expand...

Not true. If the washing machine is connected via a plug and socket you don't need or want a fused connection unit. Having two 13a fuses in line is pointless as both will blow under fault conditions.

Pointless, true. But not true that both will necessarily blow.

It's anyone's guess as to whether both of which of the two blow under fault conditions.

Maybe neither and the MCB goes.

I'm not a big fan of FCUs in kitchens generally, but without knowing the specifics, I didn't feel it wise to advise a 20A DP

Why not use a 20amp DP switch with neon indicator for your washer?