Incorrect upvc window installation?

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Hi,

We are currently undergoing a loft conversion. Fairly standard mid terrace with rear dormer.
Our building company were unable to supply a suitable upvc sash window, so we sourced our own Eco-slides locally. The windows have been fitted and having had a look tonight I fear they've been fitted incorrectly, as they stick out pretty far.
Even once the hanging roof tiles are fitted they will still stick out proud by about 2-3cm (the outer edge of the frame).
Is this going to be an issue with building regs inspection? Any other potential problems?

Thanks.

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can`t see a lot wrong, maybe a bit of packing out where the frame meets the tile battens, will bring the tiles more to the edge of the frame, then a silicone bead to finish off ,
its a question of making it fit or waiting until the correct fitting one is available.
 
Thanks for the reply. I sent the photos to the window supplier who has said that whilst sited further in would be better, as long as they're weather tight there shouldn't be an issue. Might not look the neatest but hopefully it won't bother me at ground level!
 
The window should have been fitted further inside the building so that it is in plane internally.

You then trim out the aperture with a liner in order to deal with the tile hanging. You are now going to struggle to get a decent seal betwixt the tile hanging and the window. The tile hanging above the window would then sit against your trim header.
 
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I haven't got the drawings to hand. They would have been based on a standard single upvc window which is their standard spec. Obviously sash has effectively doubled the depth of the window. I had another look today and when more tiles are hung on top of each other, they do project a bit more so they're pretty much flush. I noticed all the neighbouring houses have recessed windows on the dormers with mortar filling the gap to the tiles. Only one has sash, and this is still recessed, although a bit less. The roofing team are coming next week so they might have something to say as it's their job to get a good seal.
On another note I'm also going to be telling them to properly patch up the access hole they made in the roof front when they first started. I was up on the scaffold using it as an opportunity to replace the guttering and paint the fascias, and noticed that the tiles they removed have been replaced about an inch higher. The replacement battens just rest on top of the old ones so this whole patch of tiles are too high, and now don't project enough for the rainwater to effectively enter the guttering. Furthermore they haven't replaced the felt over the hole, so there's a strong chance of sheeting rain entering and starting to cause further issues.
I guess 9 out of 10 customers would never notice as they'd never be up on the scaffold.
 
The roofing team are coming next week so they might have something to say as it's their job to get a good seal.
Hilarious.
Make a cock up of the window fit and palm it off onto the roofers. Brilliant!
 
You will need to fit lead soakers or flashings (behind the tiles) around the window then dress it over the tiles once they are hung. You can then seal against the lead.
 
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The window should have been fitted further inside the building so that it is in plane internally.

You then trim out the aperture with a liner in order to deal with the tile hanging. You are now going to struggle to get a decent seal betwixt the tile hanging and the window. The tile hanging above the window would then sit against your trim header.

Exactly, I would still do something similar but frame around the window, fixing to the outside, maybe with some bullnose upvc, cut the sides at an angle so that the header slopes down,then either seal each tile as you work up the courses or as you suggested later on fit soakers to each course.
Whatever you do isn't going to be right though and I can forsee weathering issues I would have turned the Tyvex outwards and trapped it against the window edge, trimmed it off and then silicone between the lining and the window.

Just about to start a loft conversion on my own house with wooden sprung sashes and that's the very reason that the back of the dormer is over engineered with 8x2s
 
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