Selecting the right Texecom

CaptainJack88 · 5 Oct 2015

OK, after much thinking, I've decided that I'm just going to go with a "standard" alarm, no extras. I can use SmartThings to let me know if there's activity in the house when I'm not there anyway.

My rough floor plan is as follows. Anything in black already exists, and the red would be new additions. It's also worth noting that at the top of the landing upstairs, there is another PIR.

What I will mention though is that the 3 PIR's, control panel, pin pad and bell box are all hard wired in from the previous installation. Any new additions need to be wireless.

What I've got down is:

3x Wired PIRs
1x Wireless PIR in Garage
2x Door Sensors for Single doors (Front & Utility)
1x Vibration Detector on kitchen window
2x Vibration Detector & Contact on the Patio Bay Door
1x Vibration Detector & Contact on the Outside Room Door

This gives me a total of 10 detectors, and I think the 24-W would be best, however by the time I've added the cost up, it might be better value just to get the 48-W kit that comes with 3 wireless PIR's. Also, I think the 24-W is not obsolete?

Elite 48-W Kit

Kit = £198
- 1 x Premier Elite 48-W
- 5 x Premier Proximity Tags
- 1 x Premier Pin Pad
- 3 x Premier Compact PW-W
- 1 x Premier Elite Impaq Contact-W (Front Door)
1x Premier Compact PW-W - £37.20
1x Premier Elite Impaq Contact-W (Utility Door) £36
3x Premier Impaq Plus Vibration Detector & Contact (2x Patio Door, 1x Outside Room Door) £42.30
1x Premier Impaq Plus Vibration Detector (Kitchen Window) £10.50
1x Battery - £10
1x USB Cable - £32.40
1 x Odyssey X-3 Backplate + Cover

Total = £406.20

Is there anything else I may need sensor wise? Maybe i've selected the wrong sensors etc?
Have I got enough to cover me, or any other suggestions on the setup?

Thanks

Nintendofan · 5 Oct 2015

Evostance said:
1x USB Cable - £32.40

personally for £20 more I'd get the Com-wifi instead of a USB lead, you'll be able to use it for programming but also it can be used with the phone Apps and allows push messages and emails of events, there are a few 'issues' with the Com-Wifi at the moment but I'm sure Texecom will iron these out given time and I think a £20 extra investment over a USB lead is more cost effective.

CaptainJack88 · 5 Oct 2015

Paulj48 said:
personally for £20 more I'd get the Com-wifi instead of a USB lead, you'll be able to use it for programming but also it can be used with the phone Apps and allows push messages and emails of events, there are a few 'issues' with the Com-Wifi at the moment but I'm sure Texecom will iron these out given time and I think a £20 extra investment over a USB lead is more cost effective.

Ah OK, I guess the Com-Wifi module will talk to my router, so I don't need a CAT6 port next to it either? Does it still allow the same setup via a PC?

Nintendofan · 5 Oct 2015

Evostance said:
Ah OK, I guess the Com-Wifi module will talk to my router, so I don't need a CAT6 port next to it either? Does it still allow the same setup via a PC?

yes it allows the same setup via a PC (obviously you'll need a wifi networks already setup in your house) If you want to go the wired route with CAT6 then a Com-IP has the same functionality but is twice the price although being hard wired it will be more reliable.

You could save yourself £30 and not buy either a USB lead or a data connection as you can still program without a PC, its more difficult but not impossible, as a complete beginner I initially programed my Premier Elite 24 up via the keypad, just takes time and patience.

CaptainJack88 · 5 Oct 2015

I guess I'll stick with the COM-Wifi for now, and if I encounter problems, then i'll have to swap it out for a COM-IP.

In terms of the setup and configuration, do you think i've got the right sensors and everything covered?

Nintendofan · 5 Oct 2015

Evostance said:
In terms of the setup and configuration, do you think i've got the right sensors and everything covered?

there's more qualified people on the forums to answers this but as an avid amateur I'd suggest a PIR in the kitchen, the PIR in the garage could do with being a Duel Tech, and you only have 1 PIR upstairs? are any of the upstairs windows overlooked by flat or sloping roofs from the ground floor, porch or garage roof etc?

CaptainJack88 · 5 Oct 2015

Paulj48 said:
there's more qualified people on the forums to answers this but as an avid amateur I'd suggest a PIR in the kitchen, the PIR in the garage could do with being a Duel Tech, and you only have 1 PIR upstairs? are any of the upstairs windows overlooked by flat or sloping roofs from the ground floor, porch or garage roof etc?

The kitchen actually has a bulk head in the middle where the RSJ is hidden with the inline extractor. Does there need to be a PIR in here, with the doors/windows having perimeter detection?
What's the duel tech PIR?
The PIR is in on the landing which covers the stairs. The master bedroom window is above the lounge bay window so has a sort of sloping roof. The same goes with the other front bedroom where the roof slopes above the study. One of the bedrooms has the back is near the slope of the garage, however I think it'd probably be a bit of a jump for any burglar to get in,even with the window open

Nintendofan · 5 Oct 2015

Evostance said:
The kitchen actually has a bulk head in the middle where the RSJ is hidden with the inline extractor. Does there need to be a PIR in here, with the doors/windows having perimeter detection

http://www.diy-alarms.co.uk/pscatalog/en/blog/post/how-useful-are-shock-sensors-in-alarm-systems this aticle says' Shock sensors are very useful as perimeter detectors, however it is not recommended that they are used as the sole method of protection. There should be some internal detectors in the form of PIRs in case the perimeter protection is defeatedShock sensors are very useful as perimeter detectors, however it is not recommended that they are used as the sole method of protection.

Evostance said:
What's the duel tech PIR?

A PIR and Microwave detector in one unit, useful for reducing false alarms in certain areas .i.e a garage where you may get spiders/rats/etc.

Evostance said:
The PIR is in on the landing which covers the stairs. The master bedroom window is above the lounge bay window so has a sort of sloping roof. The same goes with the other front bedroom where the roof slopes above the study. One of the bedrooms has the back is near the slope of the garage, however I think it'd probably be a bit of a jump for any burglar to get in,even with the window open

I personally have a PIR in every room in my house, I have a porch that gives access to an upper bedroom and an ground floor extension at the rear that gives access to another window, I went the whole hog and just covered each room, also gives the benefit of a 'confirmed' alarm if required.

sparkymarka · 5 Oct 2015

You do know that the 48w only has 4 onboard zones ?

CaptainJack88 · 5 Oct 2015

sparkymarka said:
You do know that the 48w only has 4 onboard zones ?

Out of interest, how would you go about configuring this zone wise then? My parents alarm has 12 zones I think and I've never once seen them arm just a certain zone. It's usually a case of the whole house or nothing at all.
If I think about it, the configurations I would use would be. Whole house, perimeter detection only and everything minus upstairs PIR?

sparkymarka · 5 Oct 2015

each device to do it right has its own zone , the zones are then omitted or not in each part set. Eg full / night / perimeter only , you can put more items on one zone BUT when you have a problem or false alarm on that zone how are you going to know which device caused it ?
Time is more costly than parts these days , so it's cheaper to do it right first time.

CaptainJack88 · 5 Oct 2015

sparkymarka said:
each device to do it right has its own zone , the zones are then omitted or not in each part set. Eg full / night / perimeter only , you can put more items on one zone BUT when you have a problem or false alarm on that zone how are you going to know which device caused it ?
Time is more costly than parts these days , so it's cheaper to do it right first time.

OK thats a fair comment. Would would your suggestion be here then, go for the 8XP-W or the 32XP-W?
I'm guessing that you can have a configuration, say arm downstairs which actives Zones 1 - 8 or whatever?

sparkymarka · 5 Oct 2015

Take a look on alert electrical KIT 0005. This is a 48 metal with 32wxp more money but you get 8 zones plus 2 on keypad , plus point you can put the wireless expander elsewhere if you have issues

CaptainJack88 · 5 Oct 2015

sparkymarka said:
Take a look on alert electrical KIT 0005. This is a 48 metal with 32wxp more money but you get 8 zones plus 2 on keypad , plus point you can put the wireless expander elsewhere if you have issues

This might actually be a better choice, as it comes with 2 Quad PIRs and 2 Dual Tech ones, as apposed to 3 Pet Friendly ones. I imagine the Quad and Dual are upgraded Pet ones?

In total it works out to be £12 more expensive, but seems to allow for greater flexibility and expansion. You mention the wireless expander can go anywhere, however how does this connect back to the control panel? It'd need to be wired surely.

sparkymarka · 5 Oct 2015

Just sits on the network bus, if the panel has the wireless built in your stuffed if it's poor cover where you installed the panel !

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Selecting the right Texecom

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