Fixing through dot and dab plaster board

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Does any one get the plaster to put more adhesive on the wall were you will need to fix something so you can get a better fixing without breaking the plasterboard. I.e were the boiler bracket will go.
 
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Cut in a noggin or something usually. Plasterers can't be trusted.

100% agree Dan. Plenty of wood Pads fixed to the block/brick where you want or may want fixings in the future. 10 minutes now can save you hours of faffing around.
 
Depends how good or bad the wall behind is. Dot and dab is notorious for hiding bad walls with little or no fixing stability! In these instances Rawl-chem and threaded rod with nuts and washers is usually the only option! Or if the gap Behind the board is sufficient and there is no board adhesive where you want the fixing, then you can use chunky speed brolly fixings.
HTHs
 
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I have used both rigifix and dryline pro google them to buy them, both are designed to give a good fixing by mitigating the gap between the board and the block.

I used dryline pro to put a cantilever arm TV braket up and its solid.

Hope that helps

Failing that it's as others have said and cut in wood...messy but guaranteed fixing
 
Just for everyones info, the dryline pro are more like a extra large rawplug and long screw so normal accuracy applies , the rigifix use a very large plastic rraw plug which has a tapped metal screw in "bolt type inner"you then fix your item with an M6 bolt into the metal inner sleeve . this requires a little more care to be accurate. Hope that makes sense ?

I'm not suggesting you arent accurate but just so anyone considering them knows the difference
 
The wall behind is breeze block I just thought getting the plasterer to dab out an area would allow me to tighten long screws going in to the breeze block better without cracking the plasterboard.
 
I have used Dryline Pro to fix radiators, kitchen units and a couple of very big / expensive televisions onto dot and dab, and I must say I am a big fan.
They are easy to use and everything I have used them on is rock solid.

I always have a trade pack in the van along with some of their extra long screws for fixing through thicker items.

See their web site for recommended loading etc.
 
The wall behind is breeze block I just thought getting the plasterer to dab out an area would allow me to tighten long screws going in to the breeze block better without cracking the plasterboard.
So did I but unfortunately plasterboard is not strong enough to resist high compressive loads, this is what makes these fixings good as you tighten up against the fixing rather than the plasterboard. Hope that makes sense
 
Thanks, but getting the plasterer to dab out an area would be a good idea though? As I could use long screws to screw into the breeze without the risk of splitting the plasterboard?
 
It's just I no I could trust the plasterer to do it. Just wondered if any one else gets there plasterer to do this. Or if it was a stupid idea
 
Dan are you saying u cut a section of board out after it has been plastered then put a noggin in?
 

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