RCD or no RCD
- Thread starter DinoTheDino
- Start date
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PBC has only fairly recently departed the UK shores and made his new home across the water, so I don't think you need to worry about the (correct) advice you have been given.
Kind Regards, John
I can't imagine that there is any country in the world in which that advice would not be correct.
And unlike the pint and the gallon, the American amp is no different from the British amp! 
Re the cable size:
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/NY2dot5slash3.html
Re the cable size:
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/NY2dot5slash3.html
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Alrighty guys, i wasn't complaining about it, okay okay i get it.
Right, so no problem with the 45 Amp FCU; and do i understand correctly PBC_1966, that the cable, reading the info on the link, is suitable for underground installation, so practically i won't need the armored one!! As about the cable size with a nominal over all diameter of 13.5mm, it shouldn't be much of a problem to feed it through a conduit bend, i still got 6.5mm play room; being aware of the (possible) difference in size between manufacturers!
Kind regards, accompanied by gratitude
Dino
, okay okay i get it. Right, so no problem with the 45 Amp FCU; and do i understand correctly PBC_1966, that the cable, reading the info on the link, is suitable for underground installation, so practically i won't need the armored one!! As about the cable size with a nominal over all diameter of 13.5mm, it shouldn't be much of a problem to feed it through a conduit bend, i still got 6.5mm play room; being aware of the (possible) difference in size between manufacturers!
Kind regards, accompanied by gratitude
Dino
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........., EFLImpudence: so armoured cable it is!! I was aware of buried cable (should) needs to be armoured, but the info on the link PBC's send, is a bit confusing:
"Indoor use where mechanical damages are not to be expected.
Outdoors, Underground, in Brickwork, Concrete with the exception of cabling in shaken,
vibrated or compressed concrete. and in Water."
I claim to be in possession of "some" common sense! So when i read the above, "Outdoors, Underground......" in what way underground does that mean? Or is it a mistake?
Regards
"Indoor use where mechanical damages are not to be expected.
Outdoors, Underground, in Brickwork, Concrete with the exception of cabling in shaken,
vibrated or compressed concrete. and in Water."
I claim to be in possession of "some" common sense! So when i read the above, "Outdoors, Underground......" in what way underground does that mean? Or is it a mistake?
Regards
I presume they mean it will not deteriorate if buried underground.
However, if you are going from house to shed under a garden you should use armoured.
Has anyone asked - do you mean just plastic conduit?
However, if you are going from house to shed under a garden you should use armoured.
Has anyone asked - do you mean just plastic conduit?
NYY-J cable is not very flexible at all. You will not get it though 20mm conduit unless there are no bends. 20mm is the outside diameter. If you want to put it in the ground use a 2" electric cable duct. But the time you have gone to all that effort it would be far easier and cheaper to just chuck some armoured cable in the ground.
This work requires rather a lot of skill though, and will also require testing once it is complete.
Yes it will be, you need to use a use a 13A FCU if you are spurring off of the ring final, a metalclad one would be good so you can properly gland the armoured cable. Metalclad socket and switchfuse the other end would make this easier too.
This work requires rather a lot of skill though, and will also require testing once it is complete.
You won't find a 45A FCU - You would need to use an unswitched FCU (maximum fuse possible is 13A) then feed into the 45A switch.
SWA (Steel Wire Armored) has become the traditional cable type for underground use in the U.K. If you check around, you may well find you can obtain it cheaper than the HYY-J.
The 20mm measurement is the outside diameter of the conduit The internal bore is less than that by twice the wall thickness. In reality, you would probably have about 15- 17 mm internal diameter to play with. I would even try to get a 13.5mm dia. cable through it, even on a straight run, never mind with a couple of bends.
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Thank you all for your patience; so, finally:
a) From the living room socket, into a 13amp unswitched FCU, into a 45A switch(47mm deep, to wire the SWA easier).
b) From the A45 switch, wire SWA cable, through the wall, outside; SWA attached on the outside wall with clips, then down in the earth, up in the shed, into a junction box
c) From the junction box, with different size cables???? (tips in regards to the shed cables would be very welcome) I reckon 1.5mm 3 core flex cable for socket, thinner cable for lights, or is it necessary for it to be SWA as well??? (I, somehow, doubt it, but thinking about it now, maybe it needs to be same thickness as the feed to the shed, which makes it 2.5mm 3 core but not armored......., does it????)
1) into a 3amp switched FCU - to the light switch - to the light bulb(s)
2) to the socket
Please, tell me this sounds okay and safe...
Thank you all, I must say I've learned a couple of things from you guys..
All the best and good night
Dino
a) From the living room socket, into a 13amp unswitched FCU, into a 45A switch(47mm deep, to wire the SWA easier).
b) From the A45 switch, wire SWA cable, through the wall, outside; SWA attached on the outside wall with clips, then down in the earth, up in the shed, into a junction box
c) From the junction box, with different size cables???? (tips in regards to the shed cables would be very welcome) I reckon 1.5mm 3 core flex cable for socket, thinner cable for lights, or is it necessary for it to be SWA as well??? (I, somehow, doubt it, but thinking about it now, maybe it needs to be same thickness as the feed to the shed, which makes it 2.5mm 3 core but not armored......., does it????)
1) into a 3amp switched FCU - to the light switch - to the light bulb(s)
2) to the socket
Please, tell me this sounds okay and safe...
Thank you all, I must say I've learned a couple of things from you guys..
All the best and good night
Dino
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.......plus the yellow "Electric cable below" tape above the cable and below the soil
Personally, I would take the SWA directly into a metalclad double socket,,
then run some 2.5mm T&E to the switched FCU for your light.
Saves ANOTHER junction box.
You'll be lucky to even get that through, SWA is not that flexible, it wont go through 90° conduit bends. Even if you could cram it through you'll exceed the bend characteristics for the cable.
Think about it, you'll have to work those conduit bends quite a few metres along the cable length to get it in place.
SWA is designed to be clipped direct and buried without any other protection, Conduit is not necessary.
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Advice arrived and gratefully accepted Taylortwocities, thank you all again, your advice is of great importance and very much appreciated!!!
Have a pleasant day
Kind regards
Dino
Have a pleasant day
Kind regards
Dino
Why do you want to use a 45A switch in addition to a 13A FCU? Not that it's unsafe to do so but it achieves nothing if the 13A FCU already includes a switch and limits the maximum load to 13A.
If you really want another switch, use a 20A one, it will me more than adequate and will leave more wiring room in the box than the bulkier 45A version.
If you really want another switch, use a 20A one, it will me more than adequate and will leave more wiring room in the box than the bulkier 45A version.
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