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Yes. There is one more way it is possible to wire, using a changeover relay, but it requires that your wiring centre that the valve is connected to having a permanent live connection. Unfortunately a permanent live is often not present at the wiring centre in old heating systems. This is avoids having to get an extra wire from the programmer to the wiring centre, if they are at opposite ends of the house. Any additional wires must be suitable for mains use and insulated and sheathed.
As luck would have it.
Having traced the programmers wiring loom, there was one unused wire in the same loom.
Which is now connected.
However, still no joy.
Measuring HW Satisified, when i move the manual level, well manually, I get the full 228V and the boiler starts, however if I let the triport do its thing, then it never exceeds 86V as it still isn't moving quite far enough to activate the micro switches.
Having traced the programmers wiring loom, there was one unused wire in the same loom.
Which is now connected.
However, still no joy.
Measuring HW Satisified, when i move the manual level, well manually, I get the full 228V and the boiler starts, however if I let the triport do its thing, then it never exceeds 86V as it still isn't moving quite far enough to activate the micro switches.
86V means the hot water isn't getting the satisfied signal. The 86V is coming from the diode/resistors inside the valve, no satisfied signal is getting to it. If you don't have 228V on your new wire when hot water is switched off at the programmer, either the programmer is faulty or the wire isn't continuous. You did connect the other end of the unused wire to the grey wire of the valve I take it?!
If you can post some clear photos of the wiring centre we can see what is going on. Your valve is not likely to be faulty.
If you can post some clear photos of the wiring centre we can see what is going on. Your valve is not likely to be faulty.
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The 'wiring center' isn't.
Its some awful bodge job the previous owners have done, and is next on my list of things to repair
Its consists of free floating terminal blocks that have been covered up with a kitchen connection point cover...
I'll add another wire to the programmer and chase the signal up.
Its some awful bodge job the previous owners have done, and is next on my list of things to repair
Its consists of free floating terminal blocks that have been covered up with a kitchen connection point cover...
I'll add another wire to the programmer and chase the signal up.
Well,
I have it all working now.
Thank you very much for your help.
Turned out that around 10mm into the cable from the terminal block there was a break in the wire.
Trimmed back and tested its all working
.
Any good resources for fitting in new Wiring Centres into drywall?
This is what we currently have:
And I'm looking at installing:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/honeywell-10-way-junction-box/66443
I have it all working now.
Thank you very much for your help.
Turned out that around 10mm into the cable from the terminal block there was a break in the wire.
Trimmed back and tested its all working
.Any good resources for fitting in new Wiring Centres into drywall?
This is what we currently have:
And I'm looking at installing:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/honeywell-10-way-junction-box/66443
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