Invisable leak on heating

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I fitted a system boiler connected to an in direct pressurized cylinder as a tanks, copper cylinder, floor mounted boiler conversion.
The new system is in the loft of a bungalow.The pressure guage and filling point are in a kitchen unit in the utility room.
I told the client to keep an eye on the pressure and top up if necessary.
One week later he is topping up one bar every day. I asked him to check for water or damp spots anywhere near pipework.
He can see no sign of a leaks anywhere.
The heat ing circuit is run in screwed barrel pipe under a concrete screed. I say screed but the concrete mix is the same strength as concrete foundation slab.
Any ideas about what might be leaking. Why? Also ideas on locating and repairing.
 
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Holychihuahua, Good evening.

Conjecture as follows.

I assume that the new system you have installed has a new pump?

If the above is correct, then the pressure within the system has risen ?

It is of interest that the distribution piping in the Concrete floor is " Screwed Barrel Pipe" --- I assume --- Iron piping with screwed joints ?

Embedded piping, of whatever material WILL corrode in very slowly corrosive environment of a Concrete floor, OK the pipe can be "protected" by wrapping the pipe in say, Denso Tape, but even that is no full proof way of keeping the pipe separated from the corrosive action of the Concrete floor.

My instinct is to "suggest" that because of the increased pressure of the new pump in the new system has caused the Old pipework buried in the Concrete to simply spring a leak ---Somewhere---

Now how to prove the --- Somewhere-- theory?

In my opinion [everyone is entitled to My opinion] there are a couple of ways I can think of right here right now of how to locate the leak.
1/. if you know, or can Guess at the embedded pipe runs, [not at all logical at times] then a simple moisture meter can --- Stress --- can locate the leak site, But? the moisture meter is a direct measurement device, and prone to be un-able to penetrate a carpet or indeed laminate Etc.
2/. There are many Companies who offer a leak detection facility, BUT at a COST! Google ?
3/. At last there are also companies that can take Digital Images that detect, heat, Moisture, Etc. on a floor or a wall or a ceiling.

Hope this has assisted?

If you can be bothered please tell the board how it all goes.

Ken.
 
The system has been converted from low pressure open vent gravity to high pressure sealed.
The client has just bought the house and is plastering decorating throughout so he is looking at bare concrete and still no sign of a leak.
I supose that if one part is leaking now any other area could fail in the future.
So i am going to recommend a new heating circuit of 8mm drops chased into the thermalite block walls.
 
Holychihuahua, hi again.

Sorry about delay in reply, been working away.

The alteration between low and high pressure systems has probably triggered a leak or a series of small leaks occurring at several joints? all it takes is a few tiny leaks spread over several joints to induce a failure of the system.

I am involved right now with an Insurance Claim where a system has failed dramatically, in that there are multiple joint failures occurring within a floating floor resulting in chipboard flooring failure as well as a load of other timber and finishes failures.

My concern with your proposal is that Thermalite block MAY not be able to withstand the thermal SHOCK imparted by the Microbore? Thermalite is a fickle material when exposed to moisture and heat?

Ken.
 
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A previous plumber once told me that you drop some cheap nasty aftershave in the system, either the head tank (bleed it through) or a filling loop and you'll at least be able to narrow down which room it is. If you're unlucky it's the cylinder (and your hot water smells) or the heat ex in the boiler.

Nozzle
 
Nozzle. Hi.

That is a "Sweet" way of sniffing out the problem area.

How about "Old Spice" that as I recall was potent enough to be detected at half a mile.

Then again I have a beard and have had a beard for more years than I care to admit to

But back to the OP the change from Low to High pressure is i think Key ant that change has occasioned the leaks in the concealed pipework.

Ken
 
Op, as the heating pipework is iron, I wouldn't bother repairing it, as the heating is now sealed and higher, will cause some joints to leak or corroded pipes to pinhole leak.
I would abandon it and run new copper pipework, drop from loft to each radiators.

Ken, pump don't increase pressure, only moved water.

Daniel.
 
How about "Old Spice" that as I recall was potent enough to be detected at half a mile.
Ken

Urgh, you have reminded me of the time that as a kid I used my step fathers Old Spice to fill up my Zippo lighter. It took months of topping up with proper fuel to get rid of the smell.

That said, it worked, your fags just stank and tasted of it though.
 
Old Spice to fill up my Zippo lighter

Given the potency of that concoction I am surprised you survived the first time you thumbed the wheel on the lighter, which i believe to be probably the best lighter, afret all look what the Fuel was? AAA I remember it well, Old Spice that is

Ken
 
Old Spice? Gives a man character, and has pride of place with my bottles of Brut and Hai Karate.
The women still take to their (high) heels.....unfortunately in the opposite direction :eek:
John :)
 
Burnerman, good evening.

Unfortunately, I have worn a beard for more years than i care to think about?

I will defer any comments as regards high heels,

Ken
 
Ct1 do a product called leakseal. Add 3 cans if that and it will fix the problem. When they demo it they use a plastic bottle which they slice holes in with a Stanley.knife water ****es out the bottle.. they then add leakseal to the water and miraculously the water slows down and stops! Quite amazing.
http://www.ct1ltd.com/en/miracle-seals.html
 
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