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The main problem is the moulded plug on the heater - I frequently see these burning up like that on heaters and dryers as the solder connections inside are frequently very poorly made and unable to conduct the current without significant resistance heating. Replace it with a good quality...

The OP is evidently inexperienced in standard electrical installation techniques and does indeed have some rather novel preconceptions about what is and isn't safe. I use traditional choc-block connectors on a daily basis to join together multiple wires, often with far greater current draw than...

If the manufacturer instructions stated 'must be protected by a 3 amp fuse or 6 amp breaker' I could understand it, but requiring a 3 amp fuse in all circumstances regardless is just unreasonable. It amazes me too how many installers have the attitude of "that's what the instructions say so...

I'm thinking it's the remnants of a very old dual tariff supply that has since been converted to single tariff, but the dual meter arrangement has persisted. Whatever the case, it needs to be investigated, if only to eliminate the (admittedly remote) possibility that she might be unknowingly...

Sounds to me like your BC inspector and your electrician have **** in their eyes and/or for brains! In particular, with diversity as others have stated, you can quite happily run it on a 6mm cable and a 32amp supply. The BC stuff is verging on the kafkaesque!

If the cylinder is poorly insulated, the first and by far the most effective step you can take is to improve the cylinder insulation. The immersion heater should exist merely as a backup in case the main heating system fails. Everything else will follow from that. Your boiler should be chucking...

I'll most likely get flak for this but what the hell... I wouldn't feed a 3kW immersion off a 13 amp plug and socket for any length of time as I don't believe they can cope with the continuous full load. However, with 1.5mm2 flex feeding the immersion I'd feel quite happy, even on a ring final...

Seeing the phrase "I reached out to..." in the OP, I knew immediately how this thread would turn out...

It doesn't state in any detail what aspect of their system they're unhappy with!!

What I don't think has been asked, or the OP has said - is what exactly is the problem being experienced with their vented pumped system that leads them to believe they'd be better off with mains fed unvented?

It's such an easy task, I would just put a fly lead to the earth terminal in the box whilst swapping over from old to new. I don't see any need to change the box - it looks to be in good condition.

There was a development of the design in the early 60s that had wider finger shields - that's what you'd remember fitting I'd imagine. That in turn was replaced by the Safetyplug in 1972. The one in the image is the original design.

More like 60+ years old - that's the original design MK BS1363 plug from the late 1940s that was superseded in the early 60s! Amazing it was still in use on a high current appliance.

The way I'd look at it is, are you going to be happy with an instant heater? Even the most powerful ones that can be installed on a UK domestic supply (generally 10.8kW) give a pretty underwhelming flow rate in the shower, particularly in winter when the incoming water supply is colder. It may...

Hot fill washers are very rare nowadays but at least one company makes them: https://www.ebac.com/washing-machines/range Whether they are worth having or not is another question.

It's borderline unsatisfactory due to the risk of a water leak, but very common/normal.

Mind, in a large part of the UK, National Grid actually IS now the DNO (since taking over Western Power). https://www.nationalgrid.co.uk/

Yep, still in use with no further problem. I put an MK toughplug onto it, as I've used them for the same issue with tumble dryers, and they don't heat up even slightly.

Before you do anything, I'd follow @flameport's advice and try it in a number of sockets. If they all heat up, then it's the plug that's at fault. A lot of these moulded on plugs have crimp/solder connections inside which are liable to fail under a high current draw, such as with a fan heater...

Old acronym, I believe - Regional Electricity Company. It's the standard plastic enclosure and shrouding that the switch fits into. It has the benefit of being able to accommodate a seal to prevent tampering This Wylex info sheet sort of alludes to it.