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Be careful though as you risk giving - and receiving - a very biased and distorted view. Few if any will post to say 'my boiler is fine' so you'll only hear of issues, and the number of issues might have a stronger correlation with the number of installations (or something else quite obscure)...

Or just bad luck. The bathtub failure curve might mean this will be the first and last problem you'll ever have with it. Only time will tell so I'd just get it fixed and move on.

If you take the knob off (there's usually a screw underneath an end cap) you'll be able to get to the inside and clean/descale it properly to free it up. Worth trying some descaler from the outside first though, and you might need to carefully use a pair of pliers to wiggle it free. Note that...

Kind of. The internal layout is such that combustion gases are given maximum opportunity to be (re)burnt rather than disappear straight up the flue, and to help with this and combustion in general the air inlet is configured to always have a minimum opening size so it can't be over-throttled by...

Constant* dripping is a good sign as it shows that the exhaust gases are being cooled sufficiently (and therefore latent heat recovered) resulting in condensation being formed. *If it constantly drips even when the heating is off (and has been off a while) then that's a different story and may...

On the contrary! I'm just steering you towards a more incremental approach... The end state won't be a hole in the tank - it'll be several holes at various points up the side so you can actually measure the stratification in real time! :mrgreen:

Be careful extrapolating across systems though - too many variables. My 150L Range Tribune UVC has a purported standing heat loss of 1.31 kWh/24hrs so converting that into °C heat loss: 1.31 kWh x 3.6 MJ/kWh = 4.716 MJ 4.716 MJ * 1000000 / (150000 mL x 4.2 J/ml) = 7.5 °C So, at whatever...

Hi Sammy21. Before you start hacking away at the cylinder might it be worth experimenting with a less-invasive approach? Will your sensor fit alongside the existing thermostat probe in the pocket that houses it? As an aside, it is not clear to me how you are expecting/intending to improve...

Great - will send you a message!

That’s what I was thinking too, which would make it a 600mm unit just like the unit required by the proposed replacement sink.

What’s the reason for the change to Wiser? If you’ve still got the T6R are you interested in selling it?

It does indeed sound like it would fit. Are you sure your current unit is 570mm wide? Seems an unusual width (although I should caveat that observation with an admission that whilst I’ve fitted a few kitchens I’m not a pro so perhaps I’m showing my ignorance of what’s out there!).

A Shelly Plus H&T and paired Shelly 1 smart relay would provide exactly what you’ve asked for as the combination separates out the temperature detection and response, the latter achieved through a completely customised rules-base approach (e.g. on below 14C, off above 18C as per your example)...

Assuming you want independent control of each zone then the operation you’ve described there is surely exactly how you want it to behave. The calls for heat are based on current temperature and, in the case of your TPI stats, a periodic firing sequence calculated to maintain the target...

Yeah the DT92E is just a simple thermostat (arguably doing it a disservice with that title given its decent TPI implementation which maintains a very stable room temperature compared to many others) but I'll let others with wider product experience suggest alternatives. Personally I'd stick...

Bit of an overreaction IMHO. They're a great stat, and I suspect yours just has something wrong with it. It's certainly not a common issue (even for you with a dodgy one by the sounds of it). Just replace it (for something completely different if you've lost all faith).

It is likely down to the 'stack effect' - warm air rising up through the building and into the loft (and subsequently out through the roof). This causes negative pressure on the ground floor hence the sucking of air through your wood burner.

Even despite the back slope there's still surface tension of the condensate as well as joins/seams etc that will prevent absolutely everything from draining back down the flue.

In my (albeit limited) experience, the theory works perfectly in practice when your house is undergoing renovation and has no carpets down. Introduce carpets and the laws of physics seemingly get changed and it's anyone's guess what which actually happen then...

:mrgreen: