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I probably used a bad example and would concede. Lets go for a washing machine wired into a switched fused or a good example would be a hand drier as we have a contract with several McDonalds and they insist that they are tested every 6 months as they are Class1

From the HSE, guidance on inspection and testing of electrical equipment

In a commercial property, the same cooker hood would come under the "In service inspection and testing of electrical equipment" not an EICR so in my eyes it is not part of the electrical installation but an appliance.

You can just see the pump on the left in the center, i have a blanket weed problem at the moment, to much direct sunlight, the yellow fish in the center is 12", 2 others just a little smaller in there as well.

Following on from the pond thread, it has always been my understanding that the fixed wiring ends at the socket, switch, SFS, light drop ect. Are you saying that if i had a cooker hood connected to a SFS, the cooker hood would become part of the fixed wiring?

Think a new post is required :D

I am going to phone the supplier in the morning and ask for clarification as i have some issues with the instructions. I am ready to be corrected but in my eyes, this is an appliance not part of the fixed wiring of an electrical installation and therefore it would not be notifiable. I have...

Ask any pond owner and they will all say that a point i isolation/switching at the location is essential. If at a later date the OP wants to add some lighting, a UV unit, a larger filter, a pump, then you have the power there ready to go and will not have to pull more cables through the...

almost all pond and fountain equipment does not come with a plug top fitted as it almost always requires the cable to be pulled through a conduit or duct I would recommend using one of these, http://www.screwfix.com/p/bg-4-way-weatherproof-power-controller/20964 It has a 3 Amp outlet and...

It has been a while ago I last saw one of them and if memory serves, it is a very early Lucy, it may well have a fused Neutral, the tails are quite often soldered into the top of the head and some had re-writable fuse carriers with asspetos arc shields. I would get the DNO out, tell them it...

DNO

DNO :lol:

There are cheaper ones out there, http://www.test-meter.co.uk/products/clamp-meters/earth-leakage-clampmeter/tmel9809-earth-leakage-clamp-meter/

Tell them that the IEE wiring regulations are not retrospective so your currant Consumer Unit does comply with the regulations

What i was trying to get across was with other instruments, there is still a degree of error that can creep in but with a drummond and a proving unit, it is pretty much idiot proof With a Drummond, the lamp either works or does not, if it does not, you investergate, if it lights up, you are...

Just from a DNO perspective, We are ONLY allowed to use a Drumond test lamp for testing for dead. This MUST be "proved" before and after testing with an compatible proving unit. We are not allowed to use any other instrument as has previously been said, they can be set wrong, batterys...

First thing, turn of the isolator in your fuse board for a couple of hours and check if both meters are registering as you previously said that the old meter was registering with the main switch off. If the check meter is registering as well, then the problem lies else where. Second, wait 3...

don't try and look at the figures on a daily basis, try and look at it weekly as if there is a small difference, it will not be as apparent as the 2 meters are out of synch so you will need to disregard the first unit doing it daily

Why have you used a 10A devise when the manufacturer specs a 25A?????