Search results

Yes, the manual specifies 2.5mm for connection via a socket outlet, but the consensus here seems to be that anything over 1.5mm is overkill and also awkward to wire into a plug. Presumably the same dilemma applies to the length of flex connecting the connection unit to the 13a socket on the...

So if i understand you, what i propose is fine?

I haven't bought the hob yet, but the oven is rated at 2075W. Do you happen to know what size/spec flex it will need? It will, as you see, go into the same outlet, albeit via a 13a plug/socket. Edit - just saw on the oven spec - min 2.5 mm 3 core butyl insulated. Any way to check what the...

Hi - thanks for the response. But it was the old 6mm oven cable that i intended to use for the induction hob - the gas hob flex would be used for the oven.

I have a DP cooker switch running to a cooker connection outlet via conduit 1m away under the worktop. This outlet currently has a 6mm cable running to an oven with a total rating of 2075W and a flexible cable running to a wall socket. The gas hob is plugged into this socket with a normal 13a...

Thanks, that's cleared that up.

I've just bought some of the old-fashinoned looking braided lighting cable from ebay to restore a period lamp. I was surprised to see that the core of the flex is not copper but (presumably) steel. I'm not an electrician, but i don't remember seeing this type of wire for a long time. Is there...

A pretty pathetic reason - the wiring up from the bedroom socket at present isn't quite long enough to reach to the top FSU terminal and all FSUs i've seen seem to have a weird configuration of terminals (i'm sure there's a reason for it). A DP switch has two at the bottom and two at the top...

Yep - just the one double socket in the loft, thanks for the quick an clear advice.

Thanks for the replies, would a fused switch unit be better than a DP switch then? I'd prefer to use the latter if possible. (I have a newish RCD consumer unit).

I have a spur off the bedroom 13a ring to the loft. I want to break this spur and fit a switch in the bedroom so that i can turn the power on and off to an appliance (dehumidifier) without having to go up to the loft every time. Which of these alternatives would be best - is there a reg that...

Thanks Tony1851. But i thought the whole point of using breathable felt was that you didn't need to ventilate the loft space? So you'd recommend some soffit vents perhaps? I was wondering about using a tubular greenhouse-type heater that uses very little power, or a dehumidifier with a humidistat?

Just a quick update, i contacted the manufacturer as there were no further responses here. They said: "due to this area being un heated you will always get this type of issue". Frankly, i was somewhat amazed at this statement and i wondered if anyone here might care to comment?

Hi kbdiy - thanks for the reply. Firstly, i do apologise for my terminology - i meant to say joists, not rafters, which i guess makes a big difference and answers your second question. There are no gaps as such at the eaves. There are skillings, so there is celotex insulation between the...

Not soaking, but cardboard storage boxes, for example, lose their stiffness after a while and become limp (I know). After an extension a couple of years ago, the loft is well insulated - about half has high mass acoustic fibre glass between the rafters and 70 mm celotex above, and the rest...

Thanks for the replies. I've soldered a piece of brass on - just using basic plumbing techniques - and it seems very solid. I was worried in case it was a complete no-no for some reason, but no-one has expressed that opinion so i guess i'll use it in the fitting.