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As I think has been established, don't twist wires - otherwise in extreme cases you can end up with things like this which I discovered a while ago: (Yes, those are brown and white wires (long story to do with previous uses of the cabling for 110V stuff), and the CPC that looks like...

That is entirely normal - basically when you turn off the breaker you only isolate the live wire, the neutral and CPC (earth) are still connected, which isn't normally a problem, except where an RCD is involved. In simple terms an RCD works by sensing a difference between the current going...

I turned them off at the programmer - the boiler and pump did carry on but then the hot water circuit was still on so I expected it to (I can't remember if it briefly stopped while changing over or not)? To answer another question - the boiler is a Glow Worm Ultimate 40 BF.

Hello all, A few days ago I was woken up by some strange noises coming from my central heating system. They sounded essentially like boiling water, so my first reaction was to race downstairs and turn the system off. My first assumption was maybe a sludge build up - looking at the header...

A few tips on drilling holes that need to be in the right place that I've picked up over time (I still make the odd mistake, but following these has certainly minimised them!): * Make sure you don't turn on hammer mode on the drill until you need it (i.e. until you've got through the plaster...

If it's actually a ring main then yes a 6A MCB sounds mad - perhaps there was a 32A one fitted and it failed, and someone only had a 6A spare that they swapped in 'temporarily'. Laser printers do tend to draw a fair amount of current at times, so I would suspect your printer itself is absolutely...

The crimp tool looks to me like it's one for uninsulated crimps, not the insulated ones you need, so I think that's the wrong thing, however it seems Screwfix don't list any others, which is a bit odd. What you want is one described as working with insulated crimps such as...

If you're removing a spur and so just have the two cables that are part of the ring, you could replace the junction box with crimps, which would then be a permanent connection. To do this you'd need some correctly sized crimps, a proper ratcheting crimp tool (not one of the cheap automotive...

As others have said, this doesn't do what you think. All it means is your SSID won't show up in the basic list of available networks, anybody who is trying to find open WiFi and/or break through simpler forms of WiFi security will still find it, using tools such as Netstumbler etc...

For gas I suspect anything you did would not be useful to the buyer (other than as a "yes it's most likely all fine", as if renting out you have to get a landlords gas safety certificate, and I presume that's not what they're asking you for? As for the electric side, there is no legal...

Have you tried power cycling the phone - I find occasionally my HTC Desire gets in to a weird state and just turning it off and on gets it happy and working normally. If not, then I would start looking at any apps you've installed recently as they might be causing the issue...

This isn't as simple as not having a good neutral connection to the breaker (either at the breaker or in the neutral bar), coupled with a confusing error message from the tester as it might be picking up some sort of induced current in the neutral load terminal is it?

Based on Alarm saying that PE means Line + CPC reversed my guess would be L + N mixed up in the input to the breaker in some way, though I don't see quite how you could manage that given presumably the neutral will be a fly lead coming off and the live taken from the bus bar that will be spaced...

Thanks for the advice - WD40 and manipulating it backwards and forwards with a pair of pliers seems to have (at least temporarily) done the trick. Obviously if it goes again any time soon I'll look at replacing it...

Hello all, My house has a Y-plan heating system, and I've got a problem with my Honeywell diverter valve. After some experiments, I determined that even with the motor removed the system would not spring back after manually opening the valve - I could force it back using a screwdriver, but it...

When you measure Ze you should have any parallel paths (such as bonding etc) removed, as such while calculating Zs by taking Ze + R1+R2 is fine as it gives you a conservative value for Zs (likely a measured value would be lower), doing the inverse and calculating R1+R2 by using a measured value...

That would be against the regs unfortunately. You're best option now is probably to get an electrician in who can first test the RCD (as it could of course be the RCD is faulty), and if that is fine then do some insulation resistance tests, and/or disconnect the neutrals for circuits etc to try...

Sadly it can occur with it off as well, as it if provides a path from neutral (which is always connected even when it's switched off) to earth that is better than the path through the RCD then some current may flow through it...

Let us know how you get on - the other common one is outdoor lighting - if the seal perishes and a bit of water gets in it can cause this extra leakage...