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Thanks, yes I've seen those but it's for a single switch fuse supplying the gas boiler. Twice now it's been knocked off by SWMBO as she left the house to be away for a few days resulting in loss of Hive heating remote control and loss of heat to keep frost and damp at bay whilst away! I think...

Hi, I have a switch fuse for the gas boiler above the kitchen worktop in my house that is in a slightly vulnerable position in respect of being knocked. Does anyone make a guarded or protected 13A switch fuse so the switch isn't knocked off? Thanks

Hi all, I’m struggling to find the right connector to connect a new 1 1/2” sink drain to an existing blank boss on an adjacent 4”/110mm soil pipe. I can’t use a strap on boss because of adjacent bends and connectors not leaving any space. The boss is 50mm internal diameter but I can’t find...

The important dimension is that from the surface of the water in the cold tank to the pump inlet. That is the head dimension that must be met. It matters not where the bottom of either tank is as long as there is a head difference as I have defined it.

There's a useful table on page 10 of this brochure from Hep2O/Wavin. file:///C:/Users/MC%20Study/Downloads/4186%20Hep2O%20UFH%20A4%20Product%20Guide%20(UF437)%20WEB.pdf

Have you looked at the OFTEC website info pages on oil tanks? Protection from fire and oil leakage causing environmental pollution are the two main issues as I recall it having retired over 10 years ago...but things do change! http://www.oftec.org.uk/consumers/domestic-oil-tanks-and-storage

If the pipe surface is scratched it will fail to seal properly and it will leak. You can try polishing up the pipe but often you will need to change the pipe for a better one. Also make sure there are no burrs on the cut end of the pipe as this will damage the o-ring seal as you push the pipe in.

Don't plugs have to have a BS (EN?) number and be tested too?

All radiators...except in the room where the room thermostat is located as the room stat and the radiator stat would conflict with each other

If you use something like Telebeam then roof trusses don't pose such a problem to loft conversion. I'm going to use them in mine but intend to DIY their installation. http://www.telebeam.co.uk/index.php/what-is-telebeam

Have a look at Heating Innovations Limited's H2 panel (I think) or one of their other systems. http://www.h2panel.co.uk/

Have you checked the anti-cycling time? In my experience Vaillant seem to think ages is required on the pretext of better economy whilst ignoring the fact that the customer wants hot water...either for DHW or heating!

I'd also question putting a tank or two of hot water in the loft. There have been cylinder failures in the past, one, to my knowledge, scalded a child to death...

The Opella Torbeck bottom entry telescopic type can also be changed without removing the fitted bottom half.

Make sure it's one that regenerates based on the water throughput, ie metered water, rather than every 24 hours whether it's exhausted on not.

How about Hambleside Danelaw 'Dryseal'? It looks like metal but is actually dry-fixed GRP sheet. It comes in 6m long x 1.2m wide rolls.

Get hold of a book called 'Simply Stairs' by Mark Milner. He teaches chippies how to to them I believe.

I kept the 15 litres I drained from my old steel tank when I removed it. Luckily there was no sludge or even water in the bottom of the tank, just kerosene. When empty I dragged in on to a friend's trailer and we took it for scrap and got a bit of cash for it! The drained oil is used for garden...

I've always yanked them out a little with a pair of pliers then prised them out with a screwdriver. Only the newer Hep2O sleeves have barbs, the older ones don't. Both come out OK.

That's what I had assumed but was looking for confirmation. Thanks.