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The bit behind the screw still turns when pumps are broken, if its sludged the impellor can become detatched. Heat could still make it to the 3 port by heat circulation, or the pump is sometimes just working. Id put my money ion your air sep being blocked though, this requires you to cut...

Is it a modern boiler with a zero governor? Sounds like it is and the combustion settings are off, gear and knowledge req to adjust that.

I was very surprised that was the fault, i rarely see those sensors fail like that. Id think more likely a sticky aps, dirty venturi, fan on way out or even possibly your pcb. May just sound like random guesses but they are all common faults that mean the boiler may just be producing...

Firstly to0 much inhibitor is not better than too little, this can cause frothing/bubbling which in turn can cause sensors to not sense, Not sure though if it could cause excess air to build up. Air can be sucked into a sealed system at certain points in the system, my first thing to try...

Sounds like you definitely have a problem if your boilers set to max, what boiler do you have? From the sound of your rads they are designed to be running at a flow of 70-80c as mentioned, but until you find why your boiler isnt kicking this out your gonna be cold.

The funniest bit is if you truly are "competent" why havnt you learnt to use google instead of coming on here and spouting off when ppl try and give you advice that may save your life? You could have done your bodge job in the time youv spent posting. My twopence worth-Buy a CO Detector...

Firstly if you havnt got the manual, get it, that has great step by step instructions, its pretty logical as its held in by 2 x bolts/screws, youve obviously first gotta drain the boiler & isolate the water going in to the boiler. For a cleaning agent its easiest to go into a plumbing...

That fitting isn't a 15mm/1/2", not sure what they are as I tried what your suggesting on a similar boiler with a long flexi tap connector. Just buy a compression T piece 22/22/15-and a flexible tap connector(15mm x 3/4"/22mm), cut the compression T into the return, insert a few inch's of...

No dont leave front off, it will be alot safer to put front back on and pointless to leave it off.

Isolate the power, remove programmer and look on back of it, that will tell which terminal does what-ie-3=hw on-Get a small length of core(the 3 smaller wires inside) from a normal wire for 3A appliances(any flex off a lamp etc) and put 1 end into L terminal on backplate and other end into ch on...

Most likely the pump you are referring to is your 2ndary hw pump m8, this is used in larger houses so that A.you dont wait an age for the hw to reach the furthest taps & B.the hw does not stagnate in the pipes causing a chance of legionarres disease. The other supply will be to your HW on...

Most likely you have an S-Plan system(2xZone valves), the zone valve for ch has likely got a failed motor, very easy to change and about £12, to test simply turn the CH on and stat up then rush to ch zone valve and observe with cover removed to see if it actuates, if not you likely have a failed...

Sounds likely your pump is damaged due to sludge m8. Call BG and ask to sign up for a contract, they will do you a "first fix" for a £100 fixed fee as you are signing onto a 12mnth contract that will cost about £200 for the year. They will rush you up the list as you are going on a...

I think the name should be "IonlyFitShitBoilers". and u reckon u know about fixin boilers? then ud know ideals are a liability, like yourself by the sound of it. I have no loyalties to BG and have worked for quite a few gas companies, but with BG's laptops, instant manu helplines, massive...

Most likely your system is sludged up. Did you use X800 alone? you might have been better putting in X400 for 4 weeks first, also if the system is badly sludged its possible neither of these would clear it.

Agile has stated some very good info. but as you've got inadequate pressure for a megaflo that rules out an unvented(check this with a several installers) system. converting to an Open vented system will add loads to the amount. Best balance between price and performance would be A very good...

Its likely the above, try letting it heat up fully then have a look at the pressure gauge on the boiler front, if thats going high when its hot its probably your expansion vessel, another ones is the have a look around the pipe that comes out the wall the boilers mounted on(probably) for signs...

Well i hate to say it m8 but she'd be alot better paying about £15 a month for full breakdown cover & an annual service.

Like MickyG said, u probably need a proper powerflush, just dumping chemicals in wont help if theres already sludge/debris in the system, at the very least fit a Magnabooster on the return. Sludge sits at the bottom when the waters cold so u could drink it if your mental(or just topped it up...

my 1st suspect would be a faulty non return valve(relatively common), try taking the ch side of the filling loop off and put in a bucket, then try and open the cw side valve, if it starts filling the bucket then its most likely the non return valve on the ch, replace & test. On occasion if you...