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As with these things nowadays, the easiest and quickest way has been to resolve this with an indemnity policy, has cost £500 but have split it with the vendor, which is a result since they are sure all conditions etc were discharged.

I think your right as the BRs was never actually signed off either and the vendors offered indemnity pretty much from the start, that doesn't concern me at all, it's the LBC as that passes to me directly and has no time restriction on enforcement and as it appears there is no ultimate completion...

Many thanks, it's with regards to a property I'm about to buy and the vendors record keeping has been abysmal, as you mention reserved matters I do have an issue with something they have done, but it's quite minor and something I will take a view on, but need to be a bit more sure about the...

Simple question, is listed building consent positively signed off as per building regs or does it work with passive approval as an approved planning application would.

then your main contractor will be responsible for CDM

If it's timber frame panels then the whole lot will go up at once, will all be pretty std heights all trades should be able to work off the same lifts. set it up for the framers and the rest will just muddle through, with hop-ups if necessary

had a similar issue with a guy two doors down constantly burning rubbish from his building work, essentially everyone said there was little they could do, unless it was dangerous. Well one evening after finishing work he left and a few hours later I returned home and the whole of his garden...

They don't the builder has them and is holding them to ransom

Exactly they would just require a simple sketch, this would be a building regs sign off

Can you establish that the vendors carried out the conversion, and when? Was it mentioned on the form TA6? if so what did it say about certification? If it is mentioned what action did you take/your solicitor advise.. As an aside EAs normally ask if a conversion has certification and would then...

Exactly and the act is called farming, not running a petting zoo. The OP needs to find a house with land maybe need to ask who ever thought of making a motorised horse.

this is true, but its highly unlikely that a clay brick won't be sufficient when a plastic one is.

do a search for reconstituted stone lintels there are plenty of suppliers out there, can be structural or non structural. If you need a secondary lintel, best place from an aesthetic point of view is above the stone lintel. will have to anyway if they have curved tops.

Yep the old way was to cut a backing angle on the hip rafter, once upon a time I could have probably told you how to work it out. Now just use a flat hip rafter and work it out by trial and error/straight edges/dummy jacks too.

and definitely rules about burning hazardous materials such as plastic. If smoke is blowing across the highway they will be made to stop. Call the police non emergency line next time it happens.

might not be if you have serious amounts of water coming up, but if it is just a bit of vapour it will stop it actually getting to the surface and condensing, with polythene overlay if it actually gets to the surface it could just run on top of the slab under the polythene not necessarily a...

All depends how straight and square the walls are to the doorway as Ken said also how long are the walls either side of the door, personally I would cut that piece all the way into the doorway and then scribe the first row along the wall, using row two as the guide to clamp up to, then pack back...

Yep if you don't want all the imperfections to show through and it doing properly. As Daz says it's a bit more than just throwing down some SLC, but that is essentially the solution to your problems. theres ways to self level a floor and ways to self level it properly.

a decent underlay will give you a better feel to the floor I mostly use duralay, but it's not cheap, but is foil backed. As to whether to fill the undulations. To be sure the answer is yes and as doggit says a feather edge SLC might be best if there are loads of local undulations. There are...

If it has taken 10 years for it to start to fail I would just go out get yourself some 2 pack filler and do it again, it's not worth ripping flooring up for 3 tiny holes like that. I would doubt you would get anyone wanting to quote to do the work and if they did you wouldn't want to pay the price.