Search results

I’m planning to increase the size of my radiators downstairs. They currently pump out about 3-4K btu in the dining/kitchen and living room but the online calculators seems to recommend about 7k. In the picture below you can see the 22mm flow and return pipes coming from the boiler, the first...

By the looks of things it should be 1.5 bricks thick if it was to be a wall. Can anyone see an issue with converting this to a fence instead? I’m not sure if the conservatory would be an issue.

What is rebuilding it properly though? Switching it to double skin or could it just be replaced with a concrete fence with a double gravel board? That wall has been there for 50+ years and probably would have been there for much longer if a fence hadn't been attached to it.

I don't know. It's not marked on the deeds. It's on my ground level, but I'm not sure if that means it's mine. The fence was installed by the previous owner of the neighbours property.

During the recent storm my neighbours fence collapsed pulling down this wall too. It's a single skin brick wall about 8ft high which holds back soil up to about the 7th/8th brick. I'm assuming that the foundations for the neighbours conservatory would be deeper than this meaning it's not...

Thanks for the advice. I gave them a call and they said for plasterboard you don’t need to prime but it won’t be detrimental to do so. I also don’t need to prime over the adhesive but doing so would even out the drying time. Im going to prime it all just to be safe.

I’m going to be tiling my cloakroom and just have a few questions that when searching I get conflicting information. I’ve bough Mapei Keraflex Max S1 adhesive and Mapei Primer G for the job. Please see the questions below: 1. Do I need to use the primer on bare plasterboard? A reply from Mapei...

I’m not going to get a chance to tile by then sadly. I think for the one wall I’m going to go for option 2 so all the tiles will be directly on the plasterboard and I’ll have to fill in the gap between the plaster and tile. One of the walls by the sink though which is only going to have 2...

I was planning to tile after the plasterer had plastered every wall but I’ve just realised my porcelain hexagon 10mm tiles weigh about 20/21kg a m2 taking it over the weight limit for a plastered wall. I’m planning to tile it to look similar to...

This has got to be trolling. If it's not, I feel sorry for the plumber.

Just wanted to confirm this all makes sense? If I cut that pipe after the rim that has an OD of 110mm I should have no problem inserting a flexi pan connector? I’ve seen some pan connectors that cope with an outlet pipe size of 90mm - 110mm. Just want to make sure I’m not doing anything...

So i managed to remove the toilet but it has confirmed that everything is solvent welded. I've had a look at my neighbours in more detail, and from my uneducated mind, it feels like if I cut it just below the ridge (in the pic below), i should be able to insert a push fit pan connector into...

Ideally I wanted to test the removal of the soil connection while planning everything in, and without losing the toilet for an excessive period. I'll give the the rocking motion a go. Otherwise I may just have to accept that I'll have to lose the toilet for longer than I hoped. If the soil...

I’ve attached a picture of what my neighbours one looks like. Really appreciate any help with this.

I'm just about to start on a DIY project to fit a new cloakroom and had a few plumbing questions if any of you could kindly help with: Is this pipe here likely to be solvent welded in place or will it just be a pushfit connection. My neighbour has a flexible connector here now so I imagine at...

I've always used Tredaire Dreamwalk throughout the house but heard that on the stairs it's better to go for something denser and thinner. Has anyone got any advice of what to go for? Would it also make sense to use something like Dreamwalk on the landing or just use the same as the stairs?

That seems incredibly wasteful. Surely it would have made more sense for then to just have extended the vapour barrier bit instead?! I'm laying a sheet of DPM below the underlay anyway so I'll just ignore that part then. Thanks!

I’m just about to lay this and have realised part of the vapour barrier backing doesn’t cover all of the underlay. It can be pulled up a bit as per the pic but it doesn’t seem to cover it all. I’m somewhat confused how this is supposed to work. If anyone knows please enlighten me...

I've just got off the phone with Ardex and they've recommended using Arditex NA as it can go over the Bitumen without issues. They even said they can go over the tiles if needed. I know you initially recommended A45 but does Arditex NA sound like a good solution to you? Edit: Not sure how I...

Thanks for the info but Colchester isn't that convenient. Do you think this would be ok - https://floormart.co.uk/ultra-floor-feather-it-rapid-drying-compound-5kg/ - it seems to be ideal for small depth repairs?