Search results

If its a mains cold water pipe, you can T into it to feed the washing machine. Will it affect hot water supply from the combi boiler? Probably but only occasionally and briefly if the the washing machine fills when someone is using hot water but this will likely be the case wherever the washing...

The basin mate seal kit from screwfix should give you a good seal but will need the backnut to be considerably more than hand tight. If you can't get tools onto it, it won't work. Can you move the pedestal? I usually loosen the basin securing screws and get a shoulder under the basin. Hopefully...

When in the dispenser, the bottle would be upside down so the bottom becomes the top so the hole is cut at TDC which then becomes BDC when used as a tank. Stop typing, put the laptop down, have another beer.

It'll be close enough but if not you could always buy/acquire/pinch another water bottle.

https://www.toolstation.com/made4trade-compression-tank-connector/p54014

Yes. It should be fitted above the normal water level so would be dry until a fault occurred. It would then transfer water to the overflow pipe. This water would not be under pressure. The seals and connections are unlikely to cope with constant submersion and/or higher pressure. DP showed you...

Its an overflow tank connector and not designed to do the job you are using it for.

The plug will be adjustable. Lift the plug out and there should be a screw and locknut so you can set the height

If the joists span the whole width as shown and you are wanting to cut notches for pipes, then there are building regulations about where the notches can go and how deep they can be. The middle of a span is not acceptable.

Does the second stopcock just isolate the boiler or the whole house. If its just the boiler, it may be worth having it there so the boiler can be worked on whilst keeping water supply to toilets etc.

You may need to adjust the position of the bolts to take into account the thickness of boarding and tiles. If you have locked them by putting nuts on the back, this may not be possible. Follow the manufacturers instructions.

Sadly, the ones you have found are not likely to be better quality and they will eventually leak as well. I try to avoid the ones where the shaft is held by a circlip. If there is a gland nut, you can at least, have ago at repacking the gland to stop the leak. If the valve is regularly turned...

If you have low pressure hot and cold at the bath taps (tank in loft, hot water cylinder, no pump) then the pressure/flow from a bath/shower mixer will be poor.

The shroud unscrews. You can try by hand using rubber gloves to give extra friction. It can help sometimes to pour boiling water over the shroud first to expand the metal. If all else fails, I wrap a good few turns of insulating tape around it to protect the chrome then use pump pliers.

If access to above the isolators is a problem, cut pipes below isolators (having turned off H&C elsewhere). Undo nut and remove horseshoe clamp. This will allow tap to be lifted enough so that you can hacksaw through the copper tails.

I've always just used the supplied rubber washer on the inside. I have seen leaks where a nylon washer on the outside has split.

You need to cut through the bolts. Dremel with a small cutting disc can do it from above or multitool from below. Sometimes though, its worth paying someone who has the right tools and has learned from experience how to tackle these jobs.

That would be a good replacement. Easy and cheap to replace if it goes wrong in the future (as they all do eventually). In order to fit it, however, you will need to separate the cistern from the pan as the basket/overflow part screws up from below. Don't forget to use a new donut washer when...

Unless you live in identical houses next door to each other with the same levels of insulation, solar gain etc etc and you use your houses in the same way, there are too many variables to consider. It sounds like you both have the boiler temp set so that the boilers will be condensing some/most...

The one closest should be the hot. A thermostatic bar would usually need the hot on the left as you look at it. The further connection looks like a flexi with a 22mm speedfit connection and fittings to get from a 15mm feed. If the flexis are in good condition then you can re-use. If they look at...