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Thanks, I originally estimated a little over 2" from my sketch. Looking again I calculate the gap to be 158mm and the centre currently 28mm from the line and requires moving to 79mm or 51mm to the right (2"). Working from a photo with parrallex error blatantly doesn't produce accurate...

If I understand correctly centralising the switch between the line and the architrave will be moving it more than an inch, more like 2 to 2.25", something like this: In which case the ables will NOT be within the safe zone created by the switch, However of more oncern to me; it will be fair...

I believe you have the instructions on how to wire the device you are fitting. Why do you need to question those instructions?

Using purpose built LED battens DOES lead to disappointment, so what is your point?

I saw a hand drier today with IPX1 rating today, very very basic but it is 'IP rated'. Personally I think I'd prefer to see IP1X or even better IP3X to prevent tiny fingers reaching the heater element or impeller.

I have a 5ft fluo tube above prismatic panels in a suspended ceiling. I tend to use that area as office (with zoom meetings etc)/light work bench (electronic PCBs as an example). Replacing with 5 different LED tubes: These VTak 20W in 4000K and 6500K...

Correct. It had rained hard the day before and tripped, when I was there all RCD's were on. Not much work with a hose spray soon tripped it again.

I'll even offer they are more efficient.

Possibly as it's superior to other forms of lighting?

Today a tripping problem in a new build property purchased 8 days ago, I measured ~100KΩ L-E. It turned out to be rain getting into an outdoor FCU feeding the garage, non sealed back entry T&E from the kitchen socket ring. The CU:Note how PV & EV charge point switched off due to not yet fitted...

I reckon it looks more like NYY and with the parallax in the picture could potentially be 3C 1.5 or 2.5mm² Is that a 5 I see or baSec?

Well this is the list of rates where doyou think it needs to be? My assumption is IP4 unless your workshop activities include pressure washer.

Lay the cable into the tub such that is doesn't go past the top of the future mirror with an extension of a piece of single as a draw wire to the end of the tube and carefully laid in loop above. When you need it break in, hook out draw wire and pull until you have enough cable. Lay in tube...

Just suggestin'

Is not the simple thing to bury a plastic conduit in the wall to the lowest likely point of the new mirror and after measuring the position very accurately plaster it over and decorate. Then if/when you decide to fit a device requiring power;chop into the unblemished wall and into the conduit at...

Which is incorrect. I believe it has changed since but at (before)harmonisation it became +ve = (red)brown, -ve = (blue)grey, 0v(earth or chassis)/midpoint = (black)blue A little while ago, I believe it was on this forum someone indicated it's now red, white, (and I think)blue which happens to...

That makes a lot of sense and the idea of a striped cable to make it different is a brilliant idea, so why did they stupidly chose yellow and green which sit beside each other on the colour spectrum and the stripes frequently disappear under some very ordinary lighting. I beg to differ on that...

Yep absolutely, but the way I see it; we can only kick a can around until OP comes back with useful information.

and a fair bit of new still does.

And of course red, yellow and blue are primary colours and black is lack of any colour/lack of any voltage so very logical. However the subject of core colours has been done to death a few times. example: https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/brown-blue-black-and-g-y-flex.528547/