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You're right Gerry. The top hinge is about 1/32" proud of the frame and the lower one flush. Difficult to correct this as c'sunk screws will self-centre but may try a bit of 'persuasion'. THANKS ALL!

Thanks Doggit, I understand what you mean but the door appears vertical when open 90 deg, half open and almost closed. Well as best as I can see on my 1m Rabone level. I suspected it was at the hinges so that's why I tried packing them out with some card but I don't really know what needs...

So, is this just 'age' that caused the render/plaster to 'blow'? All walls in the original building are papered because the 'plaster' (sand & lime?) beneath isn't very sound. Thanks.

Leaning where from the top? Sorry, I don't understand what you mean. It's vertical when I check either side of the door at the latch end and by the hinges. Also vertical when I check the latch face. Thanks.

I already put a level on it. It all looks cock-on. It may not be as bad as half-closed, but it won't stay fully open. The door stays where I put it from the 'half-closed' to closed. BTW, I know the hinges are worn out and I should probably have 3 hinges but I have another 3 glazed doors which...

Hi all, one of my internal doors is not hung properly but I don't know how to correct it. The problem is that won't stay at 90 deg, it keeps closing half way. It's a door between our lounge and a lobby which I'd like to keep open, but it just swings back to half way! It's a glazed 15 panel door...

Thanks for that Vinn. It's actually the party wall with my neighbour! It started as an old 3-bed semi-detached 'cottage' with two rooms downstairs and an 'outhouse' for laundry/toilet. It's seen may mods and extensions since then though! So, to answer your questions: Possibly a 'rat-trap' cavity...

Should I just try and shove some form of filler down behind the skirting board, then build up layers on the wall? I'm not a plasterer (I discovered that many years ago!) and not after a professional job. This is just a small bedroom and will be papered at some time soon. I have some Artex which...

Thanks tiger. All rendering crumbled away back to brickwork including behind skirting - and below I guess as it's apparent in lounge below.

I first noticed a bulge in the wallpaper in my lounge just below the coving. Giving it a prod it felt like the plaster behind was crumbling so I stopped. I don't want to peel back the wallpaper as I have no intention (or time) to redecorate the lounge. I then checked the small bedroom above...

Yes I did find a solution. "Felt-Backed Vinyl" - it was recommended by a flooring specialist who had been using it for a few years. It's now been laid in our kitchen/Diner and Utility room for over three years now and is absolutely fine. They also use it over ceramic tiles - the felt layer helps...

Really Matty? The surveyor said it's been around a number of years, and the fitter said he's laid quite a bit of it too. (sorry for the delay in reply)

Well, it's all done now and the fitter made an excellent job aligning the tile patterns in all three areas. I just left him to it as he has been laying felt-backed for years - even on parquet flooring! I noticed he used double sided tape in some strategic areas - edges between rooms, and used a...

Again I am indebted to you for your help and advise Matt. I see the logic behind only sticking down 2 sides - agreed. The dining area (only about 3m x 2m) is a regular shape. The kitchen has units on most of three sides with openings for slide-under fridge and dishwasher plus cooker. And an...

With respect Matty, you haven't told me how to do the job! Well, apart from ripping up the parquet - and that is NOT an option. I was open to the ply or hardboard option but ply thickness or fixing method was not confirmed. On further examination I think the parquet tiles are only about 6-7mm...

LATEST UPDATE. Had the surveyor out last evening who saw NO PROBLEM laying over the wooden parquet tiles if we used FELT-BACKED vinyl. They will probably use double sided tape around the edges. That's it. Problem solved. Thanks for all your input but please note above resolution for future...

Thanks for your input Steve. I think I know what you mean and do agree somewhat. Note that I'm already at finished floor level - so any additional height is a concern - that's why I'm favouring hardboard but I'm prepared to be educated. Whatever is laid will have to be disguised well at the door...

We have just had new doors & drawers fitted with new (soft close) hinges. The fitter fitted the new hinges to the doors and just offered them up to the old carcasses. I guess they were mid-position. He then just powered in new screws. Job done - about 2 minutes per door!

We had our kitchen refurbished recently and the doors/drawers are (I think) vinyl skin vacuum formed over mdf. It looks great. Included in the deal were supposed to be 'decor panels' for the dishwasher and fridge but as the new doors etc don't use a laminate they stuck a vinyl skin to these...

Many thanks for all your help so far Matt. We stopped off at another flooring shop this afternoon and the guy in there recommended laying either ply or hardboard (depending on condition of parquet and span of area) and left 'unfixed'. But he also explained it would be up to the surveyor who...