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I have to fill some joins in freestone, what's best to use that will stay in there if i open the joint up slightly.

Parts of the property for which the Tenant is responsible subject to contribution by the Landlord. (2) The roof (including the joists above the upper storey of the property) and the chimney stacks gutters and rainwater goods. Thats word for word.

Its a lease and i have to go half's, just had a read, as for the other stuff i will have a chat with the other tenant first. thanks.

I rent out a garden flat and somebody else rents out the top flat. I've been told the chimney breast has damp on it ( this is ok as i have known it would need doing eventually) We will pay half each towards the cost of the work. The owner of the top flat is getting someone in that they trust...

Cheers i might go for that.

Looking at a job where the gutter could do with being wider, there is 4" at the moment and its four floors up and they dont want the rest changed. Half way along the side of the house a lead valley goes into the 4" gutter which also restricts the flow a bit, and a union which is to high! I...

I think the best thing to do is stuff a load of fibre glass down the flue's. This will stop any warm air that comes up the flue hitting the cold and causing condensation.

scratch coat is the first coat of render which you scratch up, these scratch marks give a key for when the top float (smooth coat) goes on. You may have seen rendering with lots of lines in it, this is the scratch coat.

I got some nails at Screwfix in the end, duff gen from Trade point. The addvert in the trade point cat which says 'For use with 18v Dewalt nail guns' in their catalogue is the one thats discontiued. I thought it a bit odd that a new Dewalt nail gun on the market has its nails cancelled so...

Have i got to use Dewalt nails for this battery nail gun. Just went to Trade point to get some and was told its a discontinued line.

I'm not talking about modern buildings with cavity's Xenon nor is the original post. "I have recently had some work done on my roof (Victorian mid terrace property." Around here thats mostly 9" solid walls, thats where I'm finding the probs with it.

It seems all i have been doing for weeks is re-bedding copings using a sbr mix. One thing you dont do is put a dpc under coping stones. If any water ever gets through a coping join or on the edge, it runs down the plastic and tracks underneth the dpc then its in.It also sweats causing dampness...

I put blue building poly sheeting held with battens screwed to the roof rafters to stop this dust.

I've put hardboard down rough side up, do i still have to use underlay. I do have a pack of that green stuff.

Looks like you have a slate roof there, you do have soakers and the flashings you can see are step flashings which are covering these soakers. Brickwork looks fairly decent too. Had loads of this lately, the chimney stacks are like a great big blotting paper and what with all this weather...

Whats the game when laying it under the units, is it lay it under say 300 then adjust the legs and plinth, In the rest of the room it can go wall to wall.

Got called to a house with water stains and black mould all around the bathroom Velux. Went up through the Velux which is a half tile up from a lead center valley. I took the tiles off around the velux and there are patches of water on the breathable felting. At the top there is doubled up...

I'm repairing asbestos roof sheets all the time, i have seen plastic put over the top of existing asbestos sheeting. Thing is, you have to have the sheet pretty clean to allow the plastic to fit into the laps on the asbestos sheets. Obviously removing the retaining hook bolts or whatever's...