Search results

Two flat block walls with concrete lintels spanning them would be best..

The vertical sides of the slab shouldn't be on show like that. It should of been strip foundations with brickwork showing from ground level up to the top of the slab.. It would probably be strong enough, but a bit of a botch..

You put the foundation blocks on the concrete, so both are needed. Concrete blocks don't need rendering, but if they are seen they need to be laid neatly and jointed..

It will take a bit of lifting too, weighing in at around 215kg.... It seems very large. I haven't seen one bigger than 600mm long & 215mm square.

In that situation the last few courses of brick can be corbelled out to cover the end of the fascia board.

It looks like every building in your pictures wants bulldozing TBH.. (sorry :-))

Three boards to work on Ian.. The scaffolders are looking after you. ;-)

To answer your last question I would sit the lintel on the next course higher than the frame, and get the window fitters to use an add-on to the top of the frame... say 25mm or so.

33 1/2"

The easiest way would be to knock of the top course of internal brick, and line the cavity with visqueen, and fill with concrete level to the top of your floorboards. I wouldn't worry about the thermal issue...

There is no point insulating any higher than you have done. You protect the top of the insulation with a cavity tray..

A gap is left to make it easier to run cables/pipes behind, and so the flooring can sit on it, without the plaster covering the joist, but isn't essential. I'd just skew nail the joist & fit your hanger the best you can.. pack between the wall & joist when fitting the strutting.

With great difficulty! Can you not bung the neighbour a few quid to allow access?

Can't see a need for 7n. Yeah you can lay the blocks flat down Surely screws & plugs will be better than shot firing, but yes the blocks will cope..

Yes they would easily, but probably better using dense conc blocks for outdoors. Mortar them together so they don't topple over..

Wall out & one big slab. Movement joint shouldn't be necessary.

You shouldn't get much of a sag over a 10m length. You just need to get the line as tight as you can. :)

The same amount of rainwater is hitting the ground now, as when the extension is built. presumably it goes somewhere now.. you've got plenty of land. A soakaway a fair distance from the house shouldn't be an issue?..

Yes tiling batten is good.. make sure they're well knocked in to the ground, so the concrete won't dislodge them. Get the concrete nice & wet so it flows easier, if you haven't poured it yet.. :-)

1/ Yes 2/ concrete 3/ Definitely go with the engineering brick 4/ The weight of the walls will overcome any weakness.