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Their is an instruction sheet on how to measure spacing req for screws for fitting draw fronts.I did not use a pilot hole, because I find the drawer fronts pull of if screws are not gripping fully .

Thanks mountainwalker Yes retailer, I have sent message to Hwam, awaiting reply, I hope I don't have to hold my breath to long. :cry:

Hi everyone Have been so busy over the last year, had no time to be on line. But I have a problem that I would like some help with .or thoughts on what to do next. Have bought a Hwam clasic wood burner, No time to stop and think, wife wanted it so bought it,Problem it says in small writing it...

It has to be a b&Q kitchen good solid chipboard,when doing assembly use wood glue on the dowls and run a bead off addesive around rebate for back panel, makes a lovely strong unit,and remember when putting legs on to tap leg into mounting ring.

Just seen your post, did you solve your problem?

you could put a small screw at the back of the shelf on top of where the support is underneath,so as to kind of trap shelf it won't tip foreward at front

These gates sound heavy may I suggest you could add a jockey wheel to it they will take the weight off the hinges

Be very carefull of how close the gloss white units are to a heat source like an oven of all the B&Q kitchens I have fitted,these are the only ones to have peeled of when put next to an oven

Polyfilla

Yes we laugh when we read of ladder slips, why?some how it conjours up a tv comic sketch.Some years ago had a window company in to install new windows,yes it happenened to one of the guys,as he came down his bum went through a small leanto roof, he slid of that, I heard the noise new straight...

I have fitted around 12 kitchens all from B&Q.Have a van so able to pick from shelfs at Exeter big shed, great kitchens,nice strong carcase, I put a drop of adesive on dowles and run a bead around rebate for back panels makes them really strong,and as a someone said end panels look good,use a...

Sorry to jump in here, but I would make the panel removable or at least have a hatch near the waste. In case you get a blocked waste which might not clear from the top.

I had a similer problem once, what I did was use two pieces of timber side by side, and so that the joint did not show I used a wider piece of timber for the door stop to cover the joint

Thanks r896 & Ibby yes I understand what you say abot digging , What about my method of restructuring floor ? does it sound ok?Can you see any problems ?

Anyone got any thoughts on this project?

Sorry if I sound like I am being bossy. What size drill bit did you use? Is the wall definate brick? What will you be hanging up?

I have a Trend 1/2 Router fixed to there own craftman table, works well because it has a fine height adj working from the top through a hole in table

Hi everyone I have a house built 1902 of stone here in rainy Devon. The ground floor is concrete, at least I thought it was, when it rains there are damp patches,so I openend up corner of room and there is only a few inches of screed over stone rubble (looks like farmyard) No d.p.m. So...

Have you checked the loft hatch? are the rad's balanced ok? Ask the council to get a plumber in to balance the rads if you can't do it yourselve. If you now have trickle vents on all windows try sealing up vents with with cardboard.

It depends on your capabilities at wood work and tools you have available. If you cut door to the angle, it will be short at bottom,you could cut wedge shape piece of timber to fix to door frame, and then lower arhitrave to cover.