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My guess is ignition pcb and auto air vent, two types of ignition pcb on this boiler depending on model, ones more pricey than other. I wouldnt jgo for a new boiler just yet till an engineers looked at it first though

Thanks for replys! I was thinking pcb but ive normally only known em go on the relays, where they sound like a clicking machine gun when you touch the stat! Will give new pcb a go tomorow anyway, thanks again guys!

Alrite lads, just wandering what you guys think.... Worcester 24i intermittant hw and ch, basically sometimes open hot tap boiler fires, other times it wont fire up until the thermostat on front is turned down and back up. Ive pulled the pcb out but the relays aernt blackend or anything...

Id go for faulty relay on pcb too, them boilers are well known for been crap!, never had to change many gas valves on them though!

I have one of those and im a heating engineer, so that proves ther good! never had a faulty one come back, saves chasing wires around your house, and there no more harder to find faults with than with wired ones. May cost £50 more for the unit but £50+ less work.

Likely to be the expansion vessel or loop left on, turn the heating off and let the system cool, does the pressure drop? If so its your vessel, if not and theres a constant drip from the blowoff, its your loop or possibally the heat exchanger split depending what type it is. Ive never had...

Nah, that drips from the crap vokera isolation valve, normally weeps just looking at it! Most of time if u gently tap the front of the valve with a hammer (and i mean lightly!) then turn the heating up full, the heat seals it back!! If its stopped lighting since the meter box was fitted, the ecv...

Any good rgi knows how to use a multimeter and test from the pcb to repair a boiler, also through experience of differnt models and components we know what voltage/resistance we should get where, only call the manufactures when were stuck as we dont enjoy holding on the phone for ages in a que...

When your heatings been off for a while, run the hot tap on full and put your hands on the flow/return pipe to the radiators underneath. If they start to get warm its your bobbin thats gone and needs replacing, common with the vokeras! Best way to clear the dhw heat exchanger is to fit a new...

Id recomend balancing the system before you do all that!

Actually if fitted propally, there shouldnt be a trickle at all, the boiler has a trap inside which dumps the waste all at once, to prevent freezing - Source boiler manual :roll: Sometimes freezing is unavoidable but may be worth checking how far the pipe is ran, if it has a steady slope...

To me it just sounds asif air is trapped in the system, you could try bleeding the pump (looks like it will be very difficult, the installer doesnt seem to of used his head!), try turning the pump speeds up and down to see if that will shift it (remember to put it back to the original setting...

Sounds like its wired up wrong, check with a multimeter to find which makes and breaks the switch, then go from there. If your still stuck, wire the controlls out and call a gas man/spark!

to be fair the ideal classic ff's are one of the best boilers out there! them isars have got to be the worst though!

forget that, get a vaillant mate. Once 20-80s start to go, most of the time your back year after year with different faults. Also you'll get a lot better hot water flow rate and a quieter boiler if you swap!

if you pull the front cover off, there's usually a sticker with a small bar-code inside, towards the back of the boiler, somewhere on the left, under the combustion chamber. Sometimes there's a big data plate on the opposite side of the cover as well.

id ring the manufacturer to double check with them mate, you don't want to be wiring up a ecotec circuit board up wrong, expensive mistake!

I agree, definitely do not put leak sealant in your system, will reduce the life of the boiler! Make sure its not your expansion vessel (while not common, its not unherd of for expansion vessels to be faulty on new boilers), weeping valves on the rads etc...