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Hi, looking to re-tile the galley kitchen floor which has a plywood subfloor. The kitchen units can't be moved so I'm only going to tile up to the unit legs. Part of the floor (maybe 50cm x 30cm) by the door dips by about a 1-1.5cm. I was going to lay ditra but given the slope in that area, is...

No visit was ever done - they were more concerned about the first floor extension as part of the submission

I think there will be issues either way as the architect had envisaged a shared gutter as the wall was meant to be astride. Any bright ideas are most welcome

Yes it's sloped IMG_20200201_170729 by danr86 posted 10 Feb 2020 at 2:02 PM

Yes that's right - it's been approved with the drawings showing both extensions at 2.3m but mine would be 20cm higher than the neighbour's.

Hi, I've had a full plans submission approved by the council for a wrap-around ground floor extension for a mid-terrace house. The submission showed the adjacent neighbour's existing extension built to a height of 2.3m and astride the boundary (as per their planning submission ten years ago)...

I've down some exploratory digging prior to starting work on a new extension. It seems my neighbour has their extension's foundations (built ~6years ago prior to my purchase of the house) projecting on to my side - highlighted in blue. Do you think I'll be able to build my extensions...

"Get away with" as in will be sufficient rather than re-building the entire rear of the property... I'd view a bodge as just plastering over it... The surveyor made the following comments "Internally, to the front section of the party wall within the front cupboard of the back addition half...

I'm currently renovating and I've found a rather large crack where the front of the house meets the back - I assume they were built at slightly different times. Do you think I can get away with just using helifix bars or something similar with resin to tie the walls together? Thanks in advance. Dan

I'm looking at renovating a Victorian house and the floors have some rather large dips (probably due to the usual undersized joists). I haven't been able to check yet whether the joists are sitting fine in the walls but will do so. In terms of levelling each floor out (the dips range from 3 on...

My friend has some damp coming through the inside of his cotttage which has previously had a DPC injected and the inside wall sand and cement rendered. The original contractor who did it says the outside needs re-pointing. We were going to hack off the inside render and re-plaster with either...

Hi, I've got textured paint on my ceiling that I want to get rid of. Where there has been some repair work done from moving light fittings my builder has filled the patches leaving some pits smooth and some bits textured. What's the best way to make it a uniform surface? Use easi-fill over...

I've already got a mitre saw - i'm after one like this http://www.screwfix.com/search.do?fh_search=circular+saws

hi - i'm looking to get a circular saw for various odd jobs around the house. Is this a particular model people would recommend - happy to spend around £150 for something decent and will last. Cheers

Hi I've had to overboard the hallway going into a bedroom so there isn't a large step between the bathroom and hallway. However, there is now a step between the hallway and bedroom which i'm fine with. However, i'm not sure where I should the board in the hallway - should it be in the middle...

hi i'm trying to renovate my stairs and i've stripped back the paint prior to staining etc and i've discovered the handrail is some sort of hardwood as is the newel cap but the newel is pine. Any ideas what type of wood the handrail is and what sort of newel cap I should get to replace the...

Hi i'm trying to redo my stairs and i'm in the process of stripping back all the paint and am aiming for finish similar to the bottom picture. Does anyone have any tips for trying to achieve that finish? Basically the treads seem to be pine as do the newels but the handrail downstairs is some...