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Looking at JohnD's graph, it appears that things were going in the right direction until new Labour got in. 'Things can only get better' ...if you own property.

Location? I have a tower like this, a few bits could do with being replaced due to rust.

Trellis. Or 3/4 height panel with a trellis on top. To add to the previous answers, putting screws through the fence edge battens, from one side to the other, helps reduces the panels being loosened, by wind pulling the nails out.

Ok, having stuck my head in the cupboard and had a fiddle, the pump is still circulating and the spindle turns freely. So it's the valve (again) But given the state of it, I will be looking to replace it in the near future, so the above questions still stand. Also, Is it worth picking up a...

The other 'dumb' question I should have asked. Does the fact that hot water is getting from the boiler into the hot water tank mean that the pump definitely hasn't failed? Or can the hot water easily siphon up past a pump that isn't circulating and keep the tank hot.

Radiators not getting hot, hot water still ok. Y plan, f&e tank etc 3 bed semi, 7 rads. The 3 way valve was completely changed in 2016, I think it's also had a new head on it since then. (If not I've got a spare knocking about) So it might be the valve, but having had a look at the...

The 30 - 50cm gap seems excessive, you will lose a lot of space that way. Although I see that you've already started, so you are where you are. Good practice is to completely fill the air gap with insulation, the densest you can find, which is usually rockwool slab. The downside to this is...

Leave the gaps for airflow, cover with a square wire mesh to keep rats out. Membrane and white chippings on the exposed soil. Paint the lower board.

5 bags ballast to 1 bag cement.

15mm probably won't cut it, you really need to tile onto 18mm ply. You might be able to lay ply on battens between the joists, then lay a cement based tile backer board over the lot, then your tiles. Save you a few mm.

I did a similar sized slab last year. 1 bulk bag of ballast and 6 small bags. 6 bags cement. Only get the bulk bag if you've got a wheelbarrow, but it does work out cheaper. (Maybe not if you need to buy a barrow, but job will be easier with a barrow, and you'll need a mixer)

Something like this, but installed upside down. Suspending the shelf. Machine screw and washer/nut on the bottom section...

You could do it the easy way, and use decking! (Seen out in the wild)

Petrol leaf blowers are culprits for poor starting. I think the fact that they only get used for a few months of the year, and left in the shed for the rest of it. Deteriorating residual fuel going stale and gunging up the insides. Can anyone recommend an additive to clear out the old crap, is...

Possibly, I know it feels warmer than the bit of wall with standard paper. Reflecting heat has to be an improvement on drawing heat away? I agree that the gains are negligible, and that particular paper is more expensive now than when I bought it. It does cover cracks beautifully though.

I don't feel that I misused the word should.

Used these recently. Worked well, but you need the depth behind...

Surely the ash holds the water, stopping the bottom from drying out? You get 2 or 3 years out of a galvanised one if you empty it after use. It's as much as you can expect for £20-£30.

At that height, the biggest load on the structure would probably be wind, rather than people actually using the frame. Don't skimp on the depth. A solid single poured concrete mass will be stronger than poured concrete with loads of big lumpy bits in it. You'd be better off trying to lay...

'Rising damp' could just be that the place has been empty and unheated for a few years. Architects cost money, overkill for a rented property, unless very high end. Regarding a survey, is there anything wrong with it that is obvious to you? Walls all straight? Floorboards sound? Roof not...