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That's really interesting - thank you everyone. Also that is exactly the figure I was after. Looks like I can't cheap out and use the mineral wool instead of Celotex in a 75mm cavity if I want it to stay warm!

Nope, you can get personal or vehicle breakdown cover - one covers the person, the other covers the vehicle.

Hi All, Was wondering if anyone knows what exactly happens if you compress standard mineral wool such as rockwool into a smaller cavity. So if you have a 200mm thick roll and squeeze it into a 100mm cavity. They say it reduces performance, but does anyone know to what extent? Are there...

I use it - great service. I broke down when on route to Scotland in a friend's car and they came right out. The only thing is that at the end of the year, if you choose to renew with them, it can up your premium if you have used the callout. I just cancelled and signed up again online. I...

Depends how many times it has been sanded before of course at to whether 1.5mm will cause trouble. Probably has never been done but you have to be wary. Not something you want to make a habit of doing each year!

Too much hassle. What's wrong with a drill? :lol:

Have you been outside to look if they take the rainwater at the front? Why do you need to change the gutter? If it worries you speak to the local building control.

Wooden bits = Biscuit Tool = Biscuit jointer Or you could be talking about dowels (look like 1/2" length of pencil) Then you would use a drill and a tape measure! I have no idea what you mean in the second one, sorry. Hope this helps.

I agree - not a fan of dark wood unless in a lovely old house and been there hundreds of years. 1. Standard masking tape you can buy from B & Q will do just fine. I would recommend taping around the edge of the frame carefully and ensuring it is pressed down. Paint on the first coat - and...

I think those initial problems will stick in everyone's mind for a very long time. I have just done some reading around the subject and there are problems with not meeting the Hot box tests, but as Triso said - it really doesn't work that way. It's all about the air gap which allows heat...

Try a light sand and re-oil if you have any of the original oil. If they are rubber scuffs they should just rub off but assuming not or you wouldn't be posting! Otherwise it may unfortunately need an entire re-sand and retreating with oil. This is a job that can be undertaken by the...

To me this sounds like a typical case of miscommunication. The plasterers have obviously received the impression that you just wanted the wall to be skimmed to give a smooth surface to be decorated. In your mind you wanted a perfectly level wall. The problem is that levelling that wall...

Sorry to hear about all your troubles - sounds like a nightmare! Can you explain how a DPM was compromised by the flooring company? How thick is the concrete? They shouldn't have been screwing into it to lay a floor. Or are you saying you put a DPM on top of the concrete before the floor...

Hi, sorry I forgot you have a suspended wooden floor, so I wouldn't worry about a DPM at all. I would suggest some kind of underlay (the cheap foam one will do) between the existing floor and the Ply so that you don't hear squeaking of the two surfaces rubbing together, but an underlay here...

Turn them up the other way? :lol: Check our Deluce Lighting, they have a good range of spots, uplighters, etc.

The way we have done it on the current job (80 windows) is to Plasterboard and plaster window reveals, then install window boards. This way the window boards go in without any chance of getting rubbish on them and you can cut them in nicely. This was mostly because of a massive delay with the...

Hello, Looking at your problem, I was immediately going to suggest slate vents - I have had them retrofitted before and it wasn't a major issue. They are cheap from Screwfix and as it's only a bungalow there won't be a problem with getting to them (we were fitting to a 3 story building!)...

Good point about the impermeable nature of the product, thank you. I would still need the vapour barrier between the stud and shiplap though to prevent moisture from the outside permeating. May I ask why you don't have faith in the product? I would be interested to hear your views. Thank you.

That's why I suggested the heat recovery ventilation units. Best of both worlds - gets rid of the condensation and cleans the air, but reuses the majority of the heat.

Hello Aran, What kills laminate flooring (apart from moisture!) is the flexing of joints and rubbing of the material on the floor. I think 5mm Fibreboard will be a perfect option for you - but I would also choose a decent quality laminate with an AC3 or AC5 (commercial) rating if you can...