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I think your existing stopcock is a Pegler/Prestex brand (could be wrong though!). Toolstation have a Pegler 15mm stopcock listed (item 55154). I would think there's a good chance that will be a direct replacement for the headgear. £10.68

Late ‘70s/early ‘80s, after that the MK design changed to the same layout as available now.

Full report here: http://www.surreycc.gov.uk/__data/assets/pdf_file/0011/73982/Fire-investigation-report-Clandon-Park-.pdf Has photos of the DB pre fire, also the the problem neutral connection - looks to me like it might have been tightened to the point that the brass connection bar fractured...

At the bottom of your photo there appears to be the edge of a removable access door on the tee below. You could try opening it - might not be very pleasant though if it is blocked.

I've done plenty of DIY end feed soldered plumbing over the years, originally using cheapo torches - never had a joint leak, always make sure it's prepared properly, heat evenly making sure you don't burn the flux off and will be fine. Clean the joint once cool and then inspect with a small...

PlusGas is even better :) I would expect it to come away with a bit of wiggling and pulling - try not to punch yourself in the face when it gives way!

As you've removed the screw the handle should now pull off the splines but is probably slightly seized on, should come off with some persuasion. If you need the new cartridge lots here: http://www.shop.lunns.net/ceramic-disc-valves-42-c.asp

Best way - replace that length of cable end to end.

OK - thought he was talking about the filling loop, wouldn't it be better to replace the hose to the white expansion vessel with rigid pipework?

The silver hose is the filling loop for the heating system - when not filling the system both the black lever valves should be off, the hose removed and caps screwed onto the connections. Frequently the hose is left in place which means it can potentially leak and also the valves at each end can...

If your magnet was the neodymium type they are incredibly powerful so you may well have loosened up chunks of magnetite - a magnetic filter in the boiler return would help to trap any bits now free to circulate before they block up the boiler heat exchanger.

Or use a 3/4" olive which will replace the standard 22mm one in a 22mm compression fitting. I've got some that came from B&Q (pack of 3), admittedly a couple of years ago and B&Q have a habit of ceasing to stock anything useful! I wouldn't recommend following the method suggested by a few on...

My two year old ecotec 824 plus had/has exactly the same problem. The design of the built in filling loop is useless - there's a thin braided hose like standard filling loops, except thinner with odd sized threads on the ends and no easy way to remove it. The valves only need the very slightest...

+ Why did you bother digging up a 3 1/2 year old thread??

3 -4 years ago I was in work one Saturday afternoon in a plush central London office building, no one else in on my floor. Went to use the facilities (well away from where I was on the floor), found water gushing out under the door. Eventually manged to find someone with keys to get into the...

This would be the right size and includes the liner you'll need for the MDPE...

I'd try using a Plasson Plass4 universal joint - doubt you'll find one after midday on a saturday, there's plenty cheap on ebay though -re schedule the work to next weekend?!

If you've already had an Openreach surveyor out you're probably already paying the £300 survey charge? You can do what you like on your own property including laying some 50mm 'BT Duct 56'. Speak to your surveyor and see if he will supply you some duct and bends, etc to lay yourself. You will...

I believe so from what I've read on here, follow the advice as above to use the standard inserts as you will have more pipe in the fitting. I think that the consensus on here seems to be that copper pipe into a speedfit fitting is less likely to blow apart than speedfit pipe into a compression...

http://t.co/lALYCxUP23 plus he'll show you how to get the ptfe rolled on properly! Only thing I'd do that he doesn't is screw the tap in without the ptfe first and count how many turns until it bottoms out, turn it back to upright and remember how many turns to make once the tape is on...