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You plan is not allowed, has to be solid untill past the register plate. You cant use a 5" liner on this stove, has to be a 6". You can only use a 5" if the stove is defra approved which yours isnt. You will need to use solid flue untill past the (steel) register plate, then adapter...

? That makes no sense. If he's connected it in some odd way which requires access above the register plate but the plate isnt removable, you cant ever take the stove out without breaking into the wall!! You should be able to remove/install the stove without disturbing the register plate...

All looks fine to me. I believe there has to be a height difference of at least 12mm between the floor and hearth but you seem to have that covered too.

Is it defra approved? For a stove to be approved it has to burn wood without smoke. In order for it to do this it has to keep the fire temperature high enough to burn the fuel effectively. They do this by limiting the amount you can close the vents so you cant turn it down low enough to...

Would look better if you tiled that side of the reveal too. Also, i know its only a sketch, but center the tiles on the window. Dont follow the window line down with the grout joint, always looks like you've just taken the easy option rather than the correct option.

I believe its the shops responsibility untill you leave the premises. A good few years ago i bought a small fish tank, about £80 i think. Paid and was carying it out but dropped it halfway to the door. Obvious breaking glass noises :roll: I didnt even need to say anything, shopkeeper...

Who told you that? Ive installed hundreds of stoves and never needed to get in above the lintel in order to fit. Most of the time, even with an open fire fitted with a gather and liner, it can still all be done from inside the opening.

I bricked all the room vents up, hate the things. I sealed them with tape for a while and there seemed to be no issues so they got filled. Ill talk to some local companies, see what they say about the units. What spec units is the best compromise of performance and price?

Our house has single glazed upvc windows. Its ex council. They have a wedge profile outside and on the inside there is a 12mm or so spacer between the frame and the seal. Windows are all in good condition but i assume there pretty old. I cant afford to fit all new windows so wondered if...

well the pump makes a noise. Ill check it properly. Would ll the rads warm up (quite quickly) if the pump wasnt working? The system has been emptied/re-filled because ive re-piped the downstairs as the origional pipes were above the skirting and i wanted them under the floor. It used to do...

Not sure if our heating has an issue or not, its our first house so ive never had to deal with this stuff before. There are 2 things that im unsure about. Its a pumped system with gravity hot water, glow worm fuel saver mk2 boiler. Ive done some work on the heating system but its always...

But if the hot water is off, and the thermostat fires up for the central heating, wont it heat the water cylinder first? Maybe im misunderstanding how our system works. I thought the boiler fires and heats the water cylinder. When it gets to the right temp the mech valve opens and diverts the...

Been looking at programmers and im a bit confused now. If i get a digital room stat and use the timer functions for the central heating, how do i use it together with the mechanical timer? At the moment the mech timer has 2 periods which switch everything on or off. You can choose HW...

Ok, thanks.

I need to move our heating thermostat to a more appropriate place. Its an old system with an old dial thermostat. I figured i might as well buy a new thermostat but then wondered if i should get a programmer and get rid of the old mechanical timer too? Our system is gravity fed hot water...

Ok, got another question. Our boiler is a glow worm fuel saver MKII. I thought a quick internet search would tell me what the temp drop should be between flow and returm, but it didnt. Anyone know?

I need to balane our rads but have a couple of questions. Ive read the wiki, and understand, but it says to turn off the HW. We have a boiler and a cylinder for the HW. I dont quite understand the HW system though, im no plumber. How do i turn the HW off? We have 3 settings on the...

Got a number for a friend of a friend who's a plumber. Gave him a ring and he said the same, just use one of the existing 15mm drops and run the other 2 rads from that too. Hot water cylinder is after boiler, before first rad and i dont think we have any zone valves. Thanks.

My current thoughts are to split the 22 into 2 runs, one upstairs, one downstairs, then tee off in 15mm to each rad. Will end up like this bad paint drawing, but with a hot water tank obviously.

No thoughts? Or havent i explained it very well?