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So, I bought some (rather expensive) slate for a summer house paving surround. The pallet consists of 18 sq/m in 4 sizes so a random lay pattern required. This sounded simple but when I started to lay it out on paper, started to realise it might not be as straight forward as it seems! I’ve...

OK thanks, that's how I understood it. All six local firms I've had quote, of which two are also major contractors in highways reconstruction, have priced the drain separately but advised to save my money & not bother unless the Council pick up on it when it can always be retro-fitted. As the...

I'm in the process of getting quotes to have an existing concrete driveway (approx 140 sq/M) dug up & replaced with a new sub base surfaced with tarmac. I'm getting conflicting advice (& prices) as to weather or not I need an Aco drain into a soak away across the bottom. Now I know regulations...

I could be penetrating damp but it could also be caused by condensation forming on the cold spots where the adhesive dabs are. If it is penetrating damp, after 5 years you will also have all sorts of unhealthy nasties festering in the gap behind the boards & if he’s used ordinary wall board...

Putting mineral insulation between the joists in conjunction with Soundblock plasterboard would be an even better compromise. BR’s require minimum sound insulation in stud walls between a room with a w/c & another inhabitable room. When forming new bath/shower rooms I use 4” cavity insulation...

The foam insulated boards you’re referring to are for heat insulation & will have very little effect on sound proofing, for this you require a much denser medium. For sound insulation you double up on 12.5mm wallboard (watch the extra weight) but much better would either Soundblock or Wallboard...

A combi on it’s own is not really a solution to a decent power shower IMO &, yes, you can fit the pump in the loft but; A negative head pump will still work above this level but; Not good!

I think you maybe confusing two different requirements & what a negative head pump can achive; Installation below the bottom of the CWS tank is a requirement for both negative & positive head pumps. Salamander require 600mm but others specify slightly less, it’s all down to the sensitivity of...

If you buy your own stove & use an independent HETAS installer (visit the HETAS website for a list & get several quotes) rather than a stove shop who will charge you the earth, you should be able to get a two floor (liner) installation including liner, insulation, register plate, cowl, fittings...

I doubt you’ll get it from any of the big national chain BM’s, they tend to be a very expensive option for DIY anyway. Specialist trade tile outlets may stock it so try to locate those in your area; it’s a case of shopping around. Delivery cost may make buying small quantities from on-line...

Assuming it’s a bitumastic vinyl tile adhesive, remove as much as you can & any loose bits with a flat bladed shovel or scraper; do not use heat or spirit based or chemical cleaners you wil reactivate the bitumen which will cause adhesion problems. When tiling directly over, an SBR bonding...

If it's bitumastic adhesive (were they vinyl?), you will need special prep which needs a bit more explanation. Don’t have time now & will give more info tomorrow but don't do anything to it in the meantime. No; as far as tiling goes, having two different tile bases will create more problems...

I would use 18mm exterior/WBP (not standard ply), double up the thickness along the front edge & bevel the tile edges along the front corner to give a granite worktop effect but it's a lot of effort to go to for a small vanity unit. It may also be a little too much for you as you will need a...

Not a good idea to tile MDF, even MR is unsuitable & for a vanity unit, water & possibly even that in the tile adhesive will destroy it rather quickly. What thickness MDF were you thinking of using? Why not tile the edge as well? Why not buy an off cut lump of kitchen worktop & use that...

I find your post & attitude just unbelievable & they are quiet justified in complaining, especially if there is a similar landing space. If you’re going to be a landlord, at least be a responsible one & for what it will cost you to correct, get it sorted ASAP. They may not have children...

Latex based screeds are usually only suitable up to 10mm but you can get reinforced screeds suitable up to 40mm. This one will do 30mm & is good; http://www.pureadhesion.co.uk/mapei-ultraplan-renovation-screed-25kg.html With all products, it’s important you follow the manufacturer’s...

You’re going right up to the 15mm max & possibly beyond with that one, you need an SLC suitable for at least to 20mm. If your intent on fitting electric UFH, you should also cover that with a latex SLC to protect the mat during tiling, to keep the floor flat & if you want to stand any chance...

As a tiler, I personally wouldn't advise you make it up with tiles, it is possible to tile over tile but get it wrong & it’ll end in disaster. You’ll be pushed to make up 15mm so the floors levels still won’t align. It’s unlikely you’ll be able to keep the floor/tiles sufficiently level which it...

So what advice do you wan't about tiling? :?

I wouldn’t advise using the lime plaster for laying tiles or any sort of plaster for that matter. You could use a mortar mix but the correct tiling materials won’t be that expensive. If it’s purely decorative & your tiles are smaller than 30cm then, a small tub of ready mix will probably be...