Search results

If you're going to fit isolation valves, fit them on the inlets. You'll need to isolate to repair it anyway.

You will have a problem with bad flow to your shower head at its highest point in that case. The problem you have, is the height of your head of water. You will get a flow of water through your shower head if you hold it down at bath tap height, but as you raise it up to a level to be able to...

Do you have equal pressures on your bath taps? Ie: Cold and hot fed indirectly via a cold water storage cistern. Equal pressures are a must for thermostatic showers. For non thermostatic, not so much so, but a lot easier to blend if you have equal pressures.

Sounds more of an electrical thing to me. Maybe ask the same question in the Electrics forum?

Make sure the flush pipe is entering nice and square, that can also make a difference to a slight leak. The one shown in the link above is normally a good one. You shouldn't have to muck about with all that silicone malarky, it looks messy. Especially round a chrome pipe. Good luck.

Picture of the one you have? Might be able to suggest a better one.

Not that I'm aware of. Get a rubber flush cone, they tend not to leak as much as the plastic ones. The chrome pipe will fit snug in there.

Tell us a bit more about what plumbing system you have. That would help. Why would you be running a bath, and having a shower at the same time, anyway?

Looks to me as if that should just come off, give a a bit welly. Or try to lever it off in different places with a flat head screwdriver between the body of the tap, and the head. Is it a thermostatic Aqualisa bath shower mixer? Looks like it to me from that picture, I could be wrong.

Speak to the water board. I'm pretty sure they have meters for 22mm supply.

That all depends on your plumbing system. For a gravity system.. no. If you have a combination boiler, this should be ok.

It's one of those things. You'll find some plumbers do, some plumbers don't. Either way really. Just don't over do it with silicone if you do, because sometimes it can make the rubber washer slip out of place when tightening.

I don't normally bother, it should be fine. Try it. If it leaks, take it apart again, dry it off and use a bit of silicone.

As has already been said, it is very amateurish. You are well within your rights to get him back to sort it out. Don't let him fob you off about an unlevel floor, that's no reason for him to install the tray unlevel. This is a very easy problem to overcome. If the tray dosent have legs (which...

If you don't fancy using a flexi pan connector, one of these should do the trick. http://www.mcalpineplumbing.com/4-110mm-straight-adjustable-length-rigid-wc-connector.html

Your cold water cistern feeds the cold to your bathroom, and also feeds your cylinder..

Isolate the mains downstairs. Drain the cistern via the cold tap in the bathroom. When this stops, turn on the hot tap just in case there is any remaining water. This way you will not be using all the hot water in your cylinder that you will then have to re-heat..

Every cylinder change I get, I stick a Gledhill in. I like them, and they work well. Never had any problems with them. All connections are factory made with just a nut and olive to tighten up.. lovely.

When you ring Saniflo, ask them. Their technical support department are very helpful whenever I've rung them.

I don't know of one. But I'm assuming you have a shower curtain, as there's no bath screen in that picture. Getting yourself a bath screen will solve that problem, plus it looks a lot nicer than a shower curtain. Also, if there is some kind of edging stop available.. I'm sure it won't look...