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As said above, your dulux matt can still be used for all I have mentioned, I just suggested contract matt as it is a cheaper way for the jobs in question as you will only be covering it over.

I don't think there really is a perfect product for repainting them, could use water based satin but its hard to get a brilliant finish and its not as durable.

Never honestly noticed a difference between any of the stain blocks I have used, if you have some oil based undercoat knocking about then just use that, you may have to add a bit of white spirits to it to aid flowing but it works a treat or even damp seal works very well.

For the bare wood the Leyland acrylic primer would be fine to use, give it two coats then two of the top coat. For the walls that need painting I would use a white contract matt first, pick it up for around £20 for a big tub. Water down some of the contract matt and spot prime the filler...

Pretty much do as you have in the past, only thing I do extra is to clean the rust off with some white vinegar, there are loads of different products for this but I find the vinegar does very well. A big no from me as regards to the gloss, it will yellow pretty fast. If you get good results...

You may always have a problem with mould growing on a cold external wall as that's where the most moisture will gather, but once the central heating is back up and running and sufficient ventilation then this should make a difference (won't say eliminate), have a look at anti mould paints if it...

Yes always apply a mist coat to new plaster using matt paint, depending on what paint you use it could be anywhere between 50/50 and 70/30 paint to water. Best to apply to a small area to make sure it absorbes into the plaster.

As long as you have safety in mind there's no problem, as with many products used most can cause harm, we all use them on a daily basis but if you know the risks then you take the correct precautions.

Done many like this with caustic soda, soaked with water sprinkled with the caustic soda, give a bit of a scrub then leave to soak for half hour bit more of a scrub then rinse off.

You can get plenty of brick and patio cleaners but I have had no problems using caustic soda for removing algae, so could be worth a try, just don't make to strong a solution and rinse well.

Probably needed a longer wire and that was their solution (obviously the wrong choice) Check to see if the wires are the wrong way around in the ceiling rose.

Just adding that the paint work bubbling is a problem caused by moisture trying to escape.

I would get some plasterers in first before doing anything else, they will be able to give the best advise apon viewing it overwise you could just end up spending more and wasted time.

If your worried about discolouration then water based paints is the way to go but is a lot harder to get a good finish.

If its coming off easy and the plasterboard is in decent enough condition then yes have it skimmed. If not then you could remove and reboard or even just leave everything as it is and board over the top.

Consider masonry for the ceiling, the anti fungicide will keep the mould at bay. Don't forget to mist coat the bare plaster first.

Probably a cold spot, where abouts in relation is it to the outside?

Cuprinol garden shades have a lot of choice.

Only thing I could think of is to put it inside a piece of copper and bend that if you have a way of doing that.

I always advise a matt finish for both walls and ceiling, more so for a ceiling because of light reflection on a silk finish just looks terrible in my opinion. Same goes for walls unless you have very smooth wall it will show up every blemish.