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Yes the drawer is directly above - although there is no water running down the outside - seems to be all internal. Coul it be from the drawer?

It's a small leak and seems to be intermittent. Water is pooling at the base of the bottom fascia plate when I take it off. I can tell there is water on the underside of the 'lip' that is exposed when you take that fascia plate off. Possibly coming via small hole in the lip? Any ideas what...

We had a washing line post for years that has just succumbed to rust and I'm about to replace it. The post sat inside a metal socket, that in turn is embedded in concrete, so the posts just slotted in. The problem is the sleeve is a fair bit wider than the post and has always collected water...

Yep I checked the handle and it was fine. I could tell the handle mechanism was pretty basic and there was nothing wrong with it, it was only ever that last quarter turn in the cylinder. In the end I replaced the centre case/gear box and it's now working fine. Something must have failed within...

The handles seems to be doing what they should do, it's just the specific action of doing that quarter turn using the key from the outside. So I guess it's whatever the enagagement is between the cylinder and that internals of the mulitlock? Locking seems to work fine, unlocking from the inside...

I thought we had a faulty euro cylinder but I've just swapped it and still have the same problem. Normally I lock this uPVC door by moving the handle up then down, then inserting key and locking. To open the door, I unlock with key, push the handle DOWN, then have to turn the key another...

Fair enough. Thanks. I'll see if I can salvage some of it and drill holes in the planters.

As a novice gardener I got a couple of planters last year and grew a few beans and some spinach. Just for fun basically. The planter are long rectangular ones and had NO drainage holes. Today they are now full of water and are a soggy, flooded mess. Am I right in thinking the only course of...

We haven't done it yet but the architect said a pillar isn't essential. We should be able to do it with two steel beams in parallel. So basically conflicting opinions from builder and his architect. Until we go ahead and do it, I'm none the wiser!

What company are you talking about and can you provide any details to back this up?

Thanks for all the comments. What is confusing me is that the Hansgrohe technical info only talks about the water pressure going INTO the shower, which is recommended to be between 1-6 bar (3 optimum). Nothing about flow rate. It is a pressure measurement going into the shower that they specify...

We have a larger overhead plus a handshower coming off a dual controller. Hansgrohe assure me only 1 bar input pressure is reqd, and the Worcester Bosch boiler I linked would be ok.

Hansgrohe replied to me to say both showers would be fine with the combi boiler model I was thinking off. I'm not expecting it to be as powerful as with the Salamander but as long as they function, that's fine. May just have to go with it and see what happens.

I didn't want to get into unvented systems because of the cost. The biggest reason for going combi was the fact it's a cheaper option, as well as freeing up space from losing the storage tanks.

So where does that leave me.... If I switch to a combi, I lose the ability to have a shower pump and have to put with a much weaker shower?

That's what I was afraid of. Is it fairly common for people to have a shower pump running off a combi system?

I'm thinking of changing our old conventional boiler for a combi (Worcester Bosch), but right now we use a Hansgrohe Raindance shower with a Salamander pump attached. My hope was the switching to a combi would mean we could lose the pump and just run off the combi pressure. However I'm...

Thanks freddymercurystwin. Yeah it does seem possible - if i go ahead with that builder I'm going to question this.

Which existing and new walls do you mean? If you mean the existing one in the middle of the house - that's the one I was wanting to remove completely - so it wouldn't be there any more.

Hi, just wanted to get some opinions. I'm planning to do a rear, 1 storey extension, permitted devt etc. My original rear wall is not flat but staggered - part of it is set more forward than the other creating a L-shape (or Z-shape, you could say) One side is a galley kitchen, the...