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assuming that you will be replacing the window + frame, you'll have to remove the architrave. From there you should be able to see how the window frame is secured. If you need to get the measurements, just run a tape and get the external frame size. When you've got your replacement windows (inc...

I would probably use paint stripper to get rid of most of the paint and then sand it. If the chipboard was not sealed prior to the black paint being applied, there is a risk that the paint has 'soaked' into the chipboard. That means a *lot* of sanding - I'd paint it with brown paint, if that is...

we have just that type of shower downstairs. It consists of 2 smoked glass side walls and a smoked glass door that opens externally (doesn't slide open). Each wall + door section is secured within its own aluminium frame and the frames are rivetted together. The back wall and the floor are...

Has anyone a ref to DIY plantation shutters (my wife seems to have the view that dining room window coverings would be a pleasant change, lol). I am particularly interested in the mechanism that connects the pushrod to each slat (thus opening/shutting all together)...

if the blotches are coming through the paint, putting more paint on top won't help. It may be that the original surface was contaminated by greasy fingers, silicon etc etc. I'm not a spray painter, so any spraying that I do, I am meticulous in my preparation - it takes the longest and is...

it may be that moisture (humidity?) is causing the paint to "blush" but I tend to think that the blotches are coming through the paint...perhaps the thinners or turps is not compatible, or is reacting with some component of your chemical mix? In either case, it will require sanding back...

easiest way is to use a paint edger as in the link below. We have a similar looking model readily available in australia at the local hardware or paint shop, so should be available in uk. Just use a straight edge as a guide. I'll edit this a little ... I don't have a chimney, so don't have a...

depends on the gap, but you may be able to use something like this (or your local equivalent). Note that it comes in various timber colours. http://www.wattyl.com.au/cf/wattyl/w_sheetqry.cfm?Data_Sheet_No=1.08

You could laminate it. I don't know what products are available over there, but there is general info here:-http://www.laminex.com.au/frame_faq.asp You could also paint it and final coat it with gloss clear, or if you have access to the equipment you could use two pack clear to finish it.

MANDATE, with regard to the following, "I think the partition will be come more stable after the plasterboard has been secured, I'm going avoid using the 'big hammer approach' and use plasterboard screws." there is a pretty good DIY plasterboard installaion guide here:-...

just as a fyi, that sequence works ok. I'm at the cornice stage, and nothing so far has got in the way of the next stage, or had to be redone.

I have a little exp with plastering (internal wall, repairs etc) but this current project is a lot bigger than that. I have sheeted lounge, kitchen, dining room and hallways ceilings and walls with Gyprock. The only tape/plaster ref I can find to a sequence from here says "butt joints then...

thanks MANDATE....clear enough for my fuddled brain to grasp it. For some reason I had it in mind that each (series) of light(s) had to return to the main loop. I ran enough cable to do that and then for the life of me couldn't figure out what to do with all the cable ends, lol. Thanks...

I must be a bit thick today, but I've confused what you've stated and what the diagram shows. The diagram from your link (light hanging down from ceiling) shows the cabling terminating at that light fitting. So, can I tap into existing loop and run a spur to a switched light fitting...

to install a new ceiling/wall light, can a cable be run and ended at the light fitting, or does the new wiring have to continue from the light fitting back to the existing loop (to complete a circuit). So, from loop to light and back to loop? Or, from loop to light? It will be switched...

I have no idea regarding your water/paint mixture, but I have used previously, and am about to use on our newly plastered loungeroom this product:-http://dulux.com.au/fr_paintingyh.htm Once the plaster is sealed we will use a low sheen acrylic paint. oops, that link won't take you directly...

fixed it!! I am using a test lamp that my dad (was an electrician, lol) made in 1954. Still works well :) When I moved the cabling around I broke a wire at the next junction along. Repaired it....bingo! Many thanks for your help breezer. Nice to have found this forum. You can bet I'll...

Hmm, I replied to you last night breezer, but it hasn't shown up :( What I asked was is it possible for an live neutral to be caused by an open circuit within the loop? I rerouted (without disconnect/reconnect) some cabling and maybe a wire has broken at a connector somewhere? Thanks for...

I'm having a problem hard wiring a new circular fluoro light in place of a tube fluoro. When I removed the existing cabling from the back of the old fluoro housing, I didn't mark what went where. We now have no hardwired lights working and at the new light the neutral is "live" continuously...