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Its all down to span of joists, load on joists and number of nails used.. Common sense says a 4m spanning joist taking the bath as loading with 2 nails is not adequate.. but with 30 nails it may be fine..

Loose bars 6mm at 200mm centres each way.. but you may find that more expensive than the mesh. Not sure how you would have problems disposing of the steel.. either resell the extra or double up the mesh in the footing

You can get a structural engineer to do calcs, drawings and method statements for you.. You need to determine the depth to go down to and extent of foundations to underpin. It may determine if piling is require etc.. But that said, firstly who did these reports.. was it a structural...

They are resin fixed in.. designed to not come out easy.. You may have to replace the bricks or leave them.. if you try to force them out it will take a cone of masonry with it.

Move the entire back wall? Remember your roof sits on that wall and so will your loft conversion.. so factor in a new roof or alot of steel..

Build a 215x215mm pier on the corner or end of return.

2-2.5m is the rule of thumb..

End of the day steel framed properties no matter how modern will not last as long as stone built castles.. Its all down to how often and well it is maintained.. if its neglected and left to rust for years then it will have problems.. IF however the property is well cared for and the steel...

If its even done under building regs.. Bear in mind also that steel reacts bad with contact to green oak and will need protecting.

Rust, maintenance, money.. etc End of the day they were built with a limited lifespan.. something like 40 year design life.. means alot are 20 odd years past their prime.. without love and care they corrode and its not a cheap or simple job to fix once they have gone..

The straps also stop the roof flying away and use the dead weight of the wall to fix down the roof (only really an issue with lightweight tiles/slates or flat roofs).. like noseall says do it properly, standard methods aren't done because they are the most expensive hardest ways.. they are...

Anything is possible.. just costs more money the higher the level of crazy.. What you propose would need 3 or 4 beams and probably require a new brick pier and new foundation at the end of the current kitchen counter.. Bear in mind that opening up the whole area will make it a lot harder...

Soakaways don't work in clay soil.. you either need to dig below the clay to hit something that will allow the water to drain or look to alternative ways to route the water away.. You can CCTV survey your drains to see where they go/if they are blocked/broken etc.. may be worth looking into...

What about reducing the spans by introducing some form of beam mid support under?

Slab should come up and be done with a void or with something like cellcore under to allow of heave..

Its a loft.. why worry about how ugly it is? If you are going to replace them you should replace with something of equal or greater strength.. and prop the purlins as you replace each one.. chances are 8x2's are inadequate and you may need something like a fair size larger..

There's a big difference when talking about piled foundations.. you pile because the top material is rubbish, so if you then found an extension in that poor material it will move differently over time compared to the existing founded on material thats 10+meters below ground..

Its now a good place to put a plant pot

Doesn't sound, least the walls are tied together.. Still you should get confirmation from your SE, your paying for his insurance and advice you may as well get full use of his services.

Cut down precast lintel as said above..