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I’m going to try to but I need a back up plan. Essentially I need to move the retaining wall back about 2 mtrs; the ground at the back of the house is higher - the supply runs from the high ground and loops through the area I need to excavate - so with it being so shallow I suspect it’s just...

Hello - I need to move the routing of my three phase supply but have come up against a bit of a problem. The supply is buried (only about 150mm) and runs across the garden then underneath the footing of a retaining wall, before running under the rear slab of the house, emerging from under the...

The very base of the bottom rail is soft in places with my fingernail test... that hole would probably go all the way through to external if I gave it a push ... otherwise it all feels fairly solid other than the bits in the photos above.

I wasn't minded for a repair because the joinery shops around me are more geared to making new stuff - they've not been keen on restoration work. There is one place but I'm fearful of the quote as they are very high end. But that's the price of professional craftsmanship I guess. Plus the door...

Thinking maybe the door repair would be easiest and cheapest then!

Oh - mean to say, oddly the vertical rebates are 44mm and the top horizontal is 40mm ... but the whole thing would have been hand cut on site 120 yrs ago...

Cheers Mr Knock. I'm going for Option Number 2. I might first see if I can salvage the door but the lock stile, lower mullion and bottom rail need lots of TLC...

I'm replacing a rotten Edwardian external door which is mounted in its original frame where the Jamb and Stops are one piece - ie they can not be separated. The original door is 2040mm high, 840mm wide and 40mm thick. Given building regs now require external doors to be 44mm thick, I'm going to...

That’s just a bit bonkers really! I had thought about putting a short 32mm run up to main; and into the property; to satisfy the Water company; but then step up to 63mm for the majority of the run. But I don’t know if that would be counter productive ie: pressure/flow rate restriction etc.

I have - I’ve asked the question of ST. I read it as a grey area: the ‘property’ is not a multi occ single dwelling so technically doesn’t fit the guidance; but there will certainly Be two separate metered feeds to two properties required short term; and possibly two others in due course...

I was thinking I might duct it to be fair. Just for ease of access if ever it needs upgrading. I've asked the water company if they will consider an LDC as one of the barns is up for sale for conversion. So one LDC feed can then be split to two short metered runs of 32mm. Makes sense to me...

Yup - old farmhouse in the middle of a field. I walked it today.

Cheers Hugh.

Cheers Chris - I thought as much - ST website muddied the water a bit. I'd have deleted the other thread but can't see how to do that. Pressure is my next concern - property is 700 mtr from main; but at least it does sit about 4 mtrs below main. ST won't allow large diameter connection so...

(cut from plumbing forum) Hello, I'm a bit confused about the regulations for the above. I was under the impression I could lay the water service myself, within my boundary, provided the work was inspected and signed off by buildings inspector. Taking the pipe up to my boundary, I can then...

Hello, I'm a bit confused about the regulations for the above. I was under the impression I could lay the water service myself, within my boundary, provided the work was inspected and signed off by buildings inspector. Taking the pipe up to my boundary, I can then appoint an approved self-lay...

Thanks dude...! I'm only making good the opening - I have a HETAS chap lined up to do the installation, and I'm not keen on roof dancing anyhow - in short the HETAS chap will do the installation and sign off. So long as regs still state 500mm min projection to front, and 150mm either side...

Stripped my lounge chimney brest back to brick (1930's standard ex-local auth)...woodburner to go in the old opening...thoughts: Dot and bad plaster board and skim the brest, then lime render the opening... or Cement and skim finish the brest, then lime render the opening... Any...

Thanks, think it will be just as easy to replace the wiring on this circuit. I need a new consumer unit anyway, and wouldn't want it to keep tripping out! :)

Ah!!! All is now clear - the reading is '5', which is a shocker considering all other readings on the other circuits (same age of wiring) is >200! Cheers! :)