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Never tried it and personally I wouldn't like to try it. However there may be other opinions on this matter. As regards infilling with gravel - if the gravel is over the top of concrete and/or tarmac then you may have problems with the gravel migrating. Again, not something I'd like to do.

A patio that is subject to foot traffic generally only needs a 75mm MOT/DtP Type 1 sub-base. The slabs themselves should be laid on a wet mortar bed of about 50mm, or use a dry bedding layer of grit sand and cement in a 10:1 mix. Never ever have a '5-spot' method as advocated by some DIY...

Agreed with Thermo - 75mm MOT/DtP1 for foot traffic, if it was being driven over by cars then it would be 150mm.

Slabs should be laid on a full wet bed of mortar no matter what the weather - I'd never do it any other way for a customer. As per Thermo, a properly pointed joint is required, a dry mix brushed in just won't do the job. EDIT: I also hope he is putting a suitable depth of hardcore such as...

As masona says, Wickes do various uPVC cloaking profiles and from memory (as I don't buy from Wickes very often since they're a bit pricey for some items), they come in either 35mm, 65mm, or 95mm widths at 2.4m length and pproximately 5mm thick (I think). They also have various quadrant...

To add to what has already been said... Before you start tiling, run a good bead of silicon between the bath edge and the wall. Then after the tiling and grouting is complete, fill the bath and silicon the edge of the tiles-to-bath, let the silicon cure then empty the bath water - this...

The patio price seems about right and if you personally are happy with the price and the quality of the company's work - ask to physically see examples of prior jobs and also speak to their previous customers, then there shouldn't be a problem.

Just out of interest why do you want to move the stairs - there might be more to it than you suspect? Either way it all depends on your intermediate floor construction as to how easy to make a new hole, load bearing wall location etc. At the worst you could have a block and beam floor and...

Personally I'd find another way to do it as I wouldn't be happy with the imposed load on the trusses...

Just to jump in here (as I've been rained off today)... the rigid foam insulation JohnD mentions will be Celotex or Kingspan or one of the competing brands... http://www.celotex.co.uk/ http://www.kingspan.com/

Sounds like it could be the mineral salts leeching out... the technical term is efluorescence (not sure about the spelling). Don't try and wash or wet scrub the salt deposits as this just dissolves them back into the slabs.. use a stiff brush when it's dry. Either way it will disappear...

Any particular reason you want to stick with cast iron? Are you in a conservation area or something? If cast iron is your only option then freeing a joint can be somewhat tricky and may require liberal amounts of heat. As to prices... not got the foggiest but I suspect it won't be all that cheap.

Possibly it was a specimen that was grafted onto different root stock and the root stock (i.e. different variety) has sprouted?

Do you have a non-condensing dryer in the house for your washing? Or maybe a humidifier/aircon running on overdrive? These types of things would worsen any condensation problem even with good roof space ventilation. Just one other thought, is your insulation between the joists tight to the...

A double skinned wall with a 75 mm cavity wants to have footings 600mm wide (or thereabouts since it's not going to be subjected to very much loading). As for the depth you need to dig - this all depends on local conditions. The depth of concrete in the footings also depends on the above...

How about using a roll of DPC on top of engineering bricks? Or is this is a non-habitable structure you are building as part of this wall?

As Noseall says it... tape measure from first batten is the way to go :)

I think that using a cement based mortar may not be the way to go... Sandstone as a walling material does decay over time and what you need to do is inhibit the deterioration as much as possible. Cement based mortars are not as plastic/flexible as lime based, also lime based mortar is quite...

Tree rats... probably plenty of recipes out there - maybe you could have apple stuffed squirrel as a main course? There would be a certain sense of irony (or something) there too!

Insane - no Your idea - yes Personally I'd always use a solid mortar bed for laying slabs but then since I expect people to pay me for my work and not come back to me later to complain about weeds/settlement there isn't a choice. However, it's up to you and local ground conditions will...