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The size of the pump depends on what sort of shower unit you go for, it should state in the MI's what bar of pressure is needed. You will need a 50 gallon (225 litre) cold water storage cistern in your loft (if you don't already have one). If the cold supply for your pump needs to be run...

I don't know where you heard that, but take no notice. If you have read the MI's, they will most probably tell you that the pump will need it's own dedicated supplies. Most MI's have a diagram to follow aswell, but if not, it would be something like this.. If your tank is raised in your...

The Mira Sport has the inlet on the left, not sure if its top left though sorry, can't remember.

You're right, it is hot on the left - cold on the right.

I'm not sure how he would install normal taps as wall mounted ones without them looking a sight for sore eyes. What were the reasons for not being able to have normal wall mounted taps? If you have a stud wall it shouldn't be an impossible task.

Never use lube on the end of the pan con that connects to the pan, as this is what happens when you do. If its tight to get it on, just wet it slightly.

End of problems? I doubt it :roll:

You've got two choices...Build some studwork for the WC to sit against (if you have enough room). You can then use a straight pan connector. As already suggested , change the WC.

Here's mine But i chose a different tele... P.S - This is not really my tele :wink:

Correct. If you undo the trap and it springs up as you have said, then don't worry about cutting it. If you have enough play on the waste pipe to pull it up further (giving you the extra fall that it sounds like you need) you won't be causing yourself any majour problem if you cut it to suit...

I'd install a Salamander whole house pump, you have 50 gallons of water which is a minimum requirement for one bathroom. 50 gallons of water just to feed your cylinder isn't really needed so you might aswell utilise the amount of stored water you have.

As far as i'm aware it doesn't need a dedicated cold supply, It just needs the cold to callobate to the required temperature. This then will be the supplied to the hot outlet as you have stated. I've only ever fitted one of these and it was years ago, i can't remember exactly how i did it...

Depends what enclosure it is, i've fitted a few that have specified sealent on the inside of the profiles.

Installing a shower pump is a hell of alot cheeper than installing a whole new system :idea:

Make sure that it is completely dry before re-applying silicone other wise it will not stick. Its better to cut out the old silicone rather than just siliconing over the top of the stuff that is leaking. Cut out the old sealent. Leave to allow any water to dry out. (24 hours should be...

IMO you get what you pay for, I've seen lots of cheep and nasty crap leak like anything. Heres a couple of brands i'd recomend: Roman Showerlux Daryl Daryl are alot more pricey but are very good. Roman and Showerlux are alot less in price but still good enclosures. Have a look At...

Just replace the isolation valve with a new ballofix valve. Alot less stress than faffing around trying to fix the old one.

Don't over tighten, those banjo type wastes crack easily. Just ask for a poly washer for a bath waste at your local plumbers merchant. I never use silicone on rubber washers as it makes the washer miss-shape when tightening, i use plumbers mait on those wastes.

It really is quite an easy job to undertake if you just follow the instructions on how to do it :wink:

I was gonna advise you what to do, but after you just tarred all plumbers with the same brush as quoted above you can stick it! Keep it as it is, ring the council, get them round, see what happens :lol: