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I will be painting the fence again once we get some dry weather but wondered on which one ... I have use Ronseal One Coat Fencelife previously but one part of the fence with arris rail always seems to lose the paint after a short while. I am looking at Cuprinol Duckback or Johnstone Garden...

As the others have said there is quite often a diagram on the relay itslef. Sometimes this is on the top or sometimes underneath by the pins. Can you rmove it from the relay base and have a look - you may find numbers against each pin. This is an octal base relay but yours may be different

I would go for this too if this is the best / only option My first thing woul be to look at getting new runs of cable to the PIRs, etc. Second would be soldering and sleeving - this could be a lot of wrok but the cables could be burie din the wall or hidden more easily. Are all your cables...

I would guess at 2.1mm or 2.5mm and plenty on Amazon for not much money - much easier than soldering and messing about...

What connector is on the DC lead? You may be able to get an extension lead?

Gravel board? Timber boards are relatively cheap at a local to me landscape / garden centre at £5.70 for 3m and 25mm thick

I am not an alarm engineer but I would start with getting a new panel - the XL6 is probably >20 years old now and no longer available. I fitted an XM6 back in 1993ish so it may be 30 years old. The panel does not have any communicator output

Are you tring to avoid more that one cable to the detector for aesthetics? You could star connect at a point where the number of cables is not seen? or arrange that those mounted on beams are at the end of a run

Yes, the wires are swapped per the sketch and for SELV using AC it makes no difference. The new LEDs are not polarity concious as the pins coud be pushed into the holder either way round. Providing the LEDs are OK for AC then you should be OK. I guess you have already had the replacement LEDs...

Looks to be AC There is a rib on the bottom cable on the righhand conductor but this rib is on the top left. So I would suspect AC and either way should be OK. As Sunray said, check the transfromer is good for more lights. How many are connected already?

@EFLImpudence The light looks to be in an accessible loft space. Could the OP identify the live feeds looped to the switches and insert a junction box with the looped neutral, then feed new switches and lights using T&E

I don't think I would for mains voltage. I will put a drain hole in and check what happens at the end of the year - I may end up with 308s and some glands

Good advice - I have some WISKA 108 boxes for the SELV lights in the garden that have water collecting. I am waiting for the warmer weather to go out and drill holes in the bottom of the boxes. I had not expected ingress but the membrane seals are not 100%

Is that the PIR and wiring diagram?

I might just have to get one! I did not know these were a thing as most often a flat blade will do the job I guess a number 1 would be most suitable?

Ok that's good to know. Just me! They are those that are neither one nor the the other - part slotted, part Philips. I have tried terminal drivers and a variety of othe slotted drivers abut they do not seem to want to budge and I don't want to damage the heads. I have never had an issue with...

I bought a 10W version (eventually) back in November but only just around to start fitting today. I found the terminal screws impossible to undo with whatever scredriver I have tried. Have you had any problems with these? I have contacted Lyco for help in the meantime

Looking at the user manual just a suitable length of 2-core flex and a plug with 3A fuse should be adequate

I found that after my post too!

I have found a 5m Aus / NZ lead on eBay but sold in Aus! Probably too expensive to ship to the UK Would this with a trailing Type G work...