Search results

No you cannot just notch anywhere, can't remember the exact rules but there is an area you can notch, and an area that you cannot, also the deeper the notch, the weaker the joist..... doesn't matter how wide the notch. Hope this helps, I'm sure someone will know the precise rules

Well done... I sometimes have the need for these. Thanks

Sounds like the waste pipe is weld so you will need a weld version of the elbow and some solvent. It's easy to use and a lot more reliable than pushfit.

what about a wire cage to cover it? - smaller version of a flue guard

I have been using the Kane 425 for just over a year; no problems and quite like it. Nice large display, big buttons. Niggles; Leak detector attachment bit flimsy although it is quite accurate Would like a bluetooth option to download logs onto my PC My first analyser so no expert on...

Pushfit - Ugh!... use weld. Not sure which bit won't fit from your description; is it that the bottle trap won't go onto the waste in the basin?... sometimes a good push is required and then tighten it up... but always check well that it is sealed. Worst case use a stanley knife to pare a bit...

Make sue that your valves are bi-directional, i.e. don't care which way the flow is.... on some it matters, particularly the older ones.

Because the system has no way of knowing if the pump is jammed or not until the water gets too hot. Just take the front screw out of the pump and with a screw driver give the pump a quick spin - should be nice and free. You will get a small dribble of water coming out but not too much. ...

Yep still got my soldering gear; get less problems with copper and it looks better! unfortunatelly with the rules on notching joists, we do have to use plastic on ocassions or when we pick-up on existing plastic plumbing.... but change to copper as fast as possible..... call me old fashioned...

You can mix different pipes (speedfit, Hep, etc) but it is not recommended and an individual manufacturer wouldn't provide a guarantee. On the odd occassion when we have had to do it then we use the insert that matches the pipe (speedfit insert for speedfit pipe, hep insert for hep pipe). you...

In general we like and fit a lot of Baxi boilers; you get occassional problems with any brand but Baxi are no worse than any other and at least you can work on them pretty easily.

Has the pump gone?.... system heats but because pump doesn't take the heated water away, system thinks the demand is satisfied and switches off until the water cools, when it switches back in.

Don't forget to ensure you can drain this drop - you will need a drain cock somewhere on the new pipework.

Combi's have their place and work well ... especially in flat's plus you should choose a big one to guarantee a good hot water flow but don't expect it to feed multiple showers/baths at the same time. There is the traditional approach with the cylinder, fed from a tank in the loft but much...

I was always taught cold on the right as most people are right-handed.... and the cold pipe normally has more pressure so in most cases you are using your stronger hand to turn off the stonger pressure?!! .... anyone else heard of this? Certainly we pipe with the cold on the right unless all...

Are you sure it's the pipe? .... the trap itself is notorious for leaking - comes loose where it is attached to the shower tray. This can be taken apart from the top of the tray, if necessary cleaned and then re-siliconed and tightened.

agreed, up through the ceiling is normally the easiest route. First of all check that the shower trap hasn't come loose - this can be tightened from the top.

give a link to where? .... have I missed something?

Have you fully opened a manual bypass valve?..... connects flow and return pipes and should only be very partially open.

Down to your plumbers merchants ... you can get a sink waste/trap system with two dishwasher/wash machine spigots.