Search results

I use a chimney starter with wood shaving for the starter no need for any chemicals at all... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hYDaL_b5VjY Another advantage of lump wood over briquetes is that you can then use the ash in the garden, where as with briquetes you never can be too sure whats in them.

Right, tbh I cant comment on thr suitability of the pad design you have chosen. But if your garage floor is only 100mm thick and un reinforced when you cut these holes you may weaken it dome what which may cause cracking and the floor to break up...

I would just add that only improving insulation whilst not having any ventilation or thinking about ventilation can often make condensation worse.... I would argue that point. Condensation will only occour on a surface where the temp is bellow that required for the air to retain moisture...

No one uses reformed cavity trays, as a general rule some wide 450mm+ DPC is generally used and floded up at then ends to form a propper tray.

Natural fibre insulations have the benifit of being brethable and are generally recomended for retrofit to older buildings; their hygroscopic properties allow them to buffer the amount of moisture that transfers through the wall structure, which can help to prevent damp patches whilst allowing...

I assume that the unsulation is suitable for full fill cavity? Wow, this is like a maths puzzel from school, In short you have 40m2 of masonry per skin above ground + another block and a half allowance to get from the footings to ground level. this equates to 40+5 = 45m2 per skin. so...

There are many ways to do it, and in all honesty it depends on the nature of the wall you have, positioning of damp proofing, levels of air flow through the internal of the building and many other factors. There are people who are paid huge sums of money to design methods of dealing with this...

:? I`m sorry I must have miss read what you were planning, I assumed you were going to fit a duct (pipe) through this hole an so you would be looking at making a hole roughly 150mm dia? if this is the case I would mark where I want my duct to go including the outline, I then drill lots of...

You sir need the services of a building surveyor. He should be able to get to the route of the problem and point you in the right direction for a suitable specialist to repair this (and if your have a green roof and cedar cladding you probably do want a specialist not a normal jobbing builder)...

I second Conny on that about the new builds although there are some that are built to higher standard. The thng about Victorian housing is they were built before building regs and so there is no set standard fr how a house should be built. some of the common issues I have come across are...

To be honest It was and probably still is "standard" to most builders but there are breathable external insulation / render systems out there I believe Knauf do one and possibly STO as well. One of the issues with internal insulation even a permiable one is that it has the effect of...

G`day Eddie, The fitting of vents to get rid of condensation is a plan that works and works well. and to be honest the type of vent you fit in this situation is often simply a matter of asthetics. You do also need to be aware that the fitting of a vent will also allow your lovely warm air to...

Yep, plan each wall so that the courses run through and so cuts on either end are even (might need tweaking if its really small cuts)

Hi, The answer is you need well graded non reactive materials. Or atleast thats a technical definition. This means your agregate should contain particles from dust through to 2mm. Mist DIY shops will be able to sell you this in the form of "balast" Is your current garage floor...

Hi, As you have a victorian house, you more than likely have little to no cavity, also highlighted by your damp issues. The issue with upgrading your insulation in these walls is that they are "brethable" often built with lime mortar and brick with a much higher level of capilarity (how...

From the firms you mention i'd go for howdens. In my experience the offer the best bang for your buck and are qite open to a little haggleing. I have found alot of the "high street" stores charge lots more than the products are really worth and the service is terrible.

If you struggle to identify the source of the damp, there aee specialist conpanies that can deal with this.

Firstly... At least the wife told you about the shelves before you did the work. Mine does it just as I finish off decorating. Secondly have you considerd external insulation? Fitting this can often be a better option when it comes to single skin walls as it helps to deal with the damp issue...

I second that board straight through and deal with the wall after.

Check what kind of hdd your TV will work with. Some may require the HDD to be independantly powered.