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Ok, first off, the far left pipe isn't DHW pipe it's the CH FLOW. The cold inlet (which shuts off DHW outlet) is the 2nd from right, 4of5. CH flow is 22mm pipe. You'd need to release the pressure from the system, and would get some water coming out of the boiler unless you tried to drain it...

Simple way? Unfortunately no, without having a flushing machine (even then, they're not great at flushing thru boilers), it can mean taking the boiler apart to flush out the main h/ex with a hose or like. That means working within the airbox casing, and rebuilding, which unfortunately is not...

When you say "hot water priority" bit, I presume you actually mean the flow differential switch that pops up vertically? This not coming up properly suggests you have a flow/circulation issue. Given you seem to be suffering on both CH & DHW it normally means inside the boiler. Something...

No, flashing green light usually means boiler thermostat knob is turned off? Reached temperature-or at least it believes so. Is the boiler not operating correctly?

Love the way people expect things to last for ever, usually without having it regularly serviced, and then kick off when the boiler tells you there's an error. E133, ignition fault, if boiler is few years old, will have old style electrodes which warped more easily, were replaced in warranty...

Mike, the hot start device/water saving valve/DHW thermostat/flow limiter would all relate to the same waxstat controlled valve on the DHW outlet (10/19849). The other flow limiter/restrictor mentioned is the fixed oriface type stuck into the cold ISO valve.

Tony, whilst I agree in principle, I've only ever found 2pumas where they actually bothered to put the filter in ISO valve, even then, being the cold mains it isn't subject to lime scale as much as hot side. Then as for flow stat, yes they don't fail often but I've had to swap 3 in last 3yrs...

The heat exchanger bore on these has such a large CSA that the DHW side is very unlikely to block or scale to the degree that it would restrict the flow. The problem is almost certainly the DHW thermostat/flow limiter not opening up when the temp rises. If you turn off the boiler and run...

The main issue would be why the SP is so high, if it's purely due to outside influence such as sun warming pipework, then when you use an appliance (light hob for example) then turn off, the pressure should be back down to a more realistic value ie. <30mb, then that's ok, and that's what you'd...

The most likely problem would be a sticking diverter valve causing the rads to heat whenever you're using hot water, hence why still getting heating when CH turned off. Check left most pipe under boiler when running tap, if it heats up - there's your problem. Next could be sticking/faulty...

Sometimes closing and opening the flow (as you've done) will cause it to clear the debris from the diverter valve seats, but sometimes the seals/divvy will need changing.

Remove the small screw holding the black tap onto the flow/return valves under the boiler, they can sometimes be stiff and when turned the tap swivels on spindle without turning it. The flats on the spindles should be at the sides, rather than L to R, which would be closed. Return filter...

As you say, once you've flushed the cold water out of the pipe, the hot water in there would stay warm for minutes, if it's cold straight away, then you have a problem. It's not going to be anything with the boiler, possibly you've got a thermostatic mixer (shower or bath) that's letting by...

When it's doing it, try closing the CH flow isolation valve, black tap furthest to left side when looking under boiler. If it stops, it could suggest an issue with water flow. Not noted as a problem on the main eco's, but others had a 'singing' noise like yours caused by faulty/damaged o-ring...

For a modern boiler the flue terminal should be at least 600mm from a boundary line it faces, from your description it sounds as though the wall it protrudes from (party wall), IS the boundary, so therefore isn't compliant. Even if it was parallel to the boundary, it needs at least 300mm...

One possible problem that would cause cycling once the boiler has heated, is an incorrectly set gas valve, with too low a setting to sustain the flame when the boiler modulates down, or poorly adj flame sense probe. Causing it to drop out, restart the ignition sequence, light, temp rises...

Put simply, it's not for him to compete. It's meant to be completed by the installer, at the time of fitting, to show that all the necessary safety checks and building regs etc have been complied with ( that is providing it's completed truthfully of course).

E168 can indicate a problem with the pcb, and/or several other components within the boiler, that also need checking prior to deciding a course of action. As said, it seems that you've reached the limit of what a DIY'er can test without the necessary knowledge and test equipment. Looks...

Certain brands can be quite problematic what with 'forgetting' their pairing. I seem to find anything Salus branded is cheap tat. Older drayton units can fail to communicate and need replacing.

RGI = Registered Gas Installer , ie someone qualified/registered to work on your gas appliance.