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Sorry. Ignore this. This was meant to be posted in CC. Thanks

Hi. I was servicing the above boiler and when trying to pull the phial and capillary tube out of the pocket they were a bit stiff and the phial (which is connected to the overheat stat) snapped. And the other wire of copper is only just held on together (which connects to the thermostat). But...

Hi, can anyone tell me what the maximum flue distance is for the above boiler running horizontally. Is it still the same as the 824 which I believe was 8 metres. Thanks

Try a simple solution first. Turn down the mains water stop cock a turn or two.

You say you had a loft conversion and had a radiator fitted in to this room. This has now caused a problem as the distance between your feed and expansion tank and top of your radiator is clearly struggling as this works of gravity. You would of been better advised converting your system to a...

I would imagine you are getting it because of pipework not being clipped in walls or under floors. Might be a case of lifting a few floorboards in the worse water hammer areas and clipping the pipes better.

www.lunns.net might be worth a look.

With the longer street elbows it gives me the option to cut them down for tight situations.

Anyone know where I can get these (for a reasonable price). I know they come with magna cleans but could do with a couple of spares for awkward situations. Cheers

It will be absolutely fine.

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plumbing/Washing+Machine+Accessories/Washing+Machine+Y+Piece/d20/sd2705/p81426 or add this onto the valve you already have?

You have air in your system (airlock) and the boiler is overheating and cutting out. Have you bled all the radiators, try bleeding the pump and any air bleeds in the airing cupboard.

Stick with what you have or go for a new combination boiler. Avoid the new baxi bermuda. A new combi fitted by an accredited installer can get you 5-8 years warranty and will save you money on your gas bills, be more efficient and obviously look nicer. My advice is keep what you have...

Yes, washer between the tap and the basin. Then under the basin should be the top hat and flexi only.

A magnet.

Depends if he is doing a "service" (1 hour) or a "safety check" (15 minutes).

Do you have an isolating valve on the pipework leading to the tap? If so, just turn it off a little bit (so the pressure is not as great) and it might help you with the problem.

I would get rid of that fitting as they only create a small hole in the pipework and therefore let minimal water out to feed the external tap. I would cut into the pipework with a tee piece and then pipe up to your tap meaning you'll have good pressure. (Remember to cut in an isolating valve...

It's impossible to say without seeing where the pipe goes. We would need to see some pictures of where the pipe is coming from to help you.

1) Check the washing machine hose connection. (The big white nut going onto the blue tap fitting). It might just need nipping up. 2) Fill up the bowl to the top and let the water down it could be leaking on the waste somewhere and again just need nipping up.