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FFS try a new cell with a 530 SE. Talk about Blind leading the blind.

If I was on site my first step would be to fit a new box and cell to eliminate them, Then for vitiated air in the snorkel if fitted, (balanced flue)

To gain access to the sec air ducts the Fire grate and clinker ejector ram must be removed.

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Is the boiler lit? IF not the flueways are directly above the fire bed. Keep operating the clinker ejector until hopper is empty The scraper head may have fallen through.

Which Camray is it? Which control panel was replaced

Clean the heat conductive grease from the phials and pockets and try again.

No its a different beast!

Test point plug

Oil pressure test point

If you have knacked 4 actuators...... The valve must be foooked!!

If its a Powerflush the unit has a pump.

IF the other valve is close to it.. Swap the heads and see what happens.

The slave tank should be fully heated PRIOR to running a bath

If you want to retain a post purge to prevent smells. I have a P P unit removed from a leaking boiler you can have for a sensible price, I have retired so no use to me. The diverter fails to H W supply ie No Heating.

The easy way to isolate the post purge is to simply put the motor wire into the satronic base motor terminal and connect the wires to PPU together in the now free connector. Live feed to PPU should be made safe.

I watched the video again .......... That Kero looks suspiciously like H2O. If the tank is same vintage as boiler and recent weather is taken into consideration!! Check OCV filter and whilst removed run a few pints into clear bottles. Or dip tank with water paste.

I would guess a trapped melted wire,

The spark should strike the flame ring not the grille. It was normal for a hole to be eroded at this point,. Repair clips were used. the spark should be crisp and blue like an arc weld

Should be an air break to prevent it.