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As Alastairreid said, no problem using a speed skim.

Tacky is wet, not dry!

Go and read the internet, most plasterers would say the opposite to you,,, plaster onto DRY pva,, no chance.

So you're saying the manufacturers have got it wrong,!!

When pva is used as a primer, it should dry, but when plastering onto it, it should be wet/tacky;,, (not dry). Read the instructions.

NEVER PLASTER ON TO "DRY" PVA.. You can SEAL a surface with pva and let it dry, but when you're ready to plaster it, pva rhe area again, and then plaster onto it while rhe pva is still wet/tacky. I always put RED food dye into my pva, that way, you can see exactly where you've been, and spot the...

Also, you would NOT do it this way on a listed property.

This was all onto wooden lath.

whole lath ceilings, but not big ceilings. Prep, then set Dots, string lines, straight edge, screeds, then first coat, scratch, let it go off, then second coat, then multi finish. Each lath ceiling or wall was always sealed before being coated, to cut down suction, pva/bonding coat slurry...

I have plastered onto wooden laths, ( ceilings, walls and patches() many a time with bonding coat and then multi finish, never had a problem at all.

Dot and dab is rubbish, these firms only do this because it is the CHEAPEST OPTION TO FINISH THE WALLS..

Definetly the best way Steve.

Many newbuilds nowadays are rubbish, thrown up,

I remember telling NicB 99 of this same method a few years ago Darrington. Do you remember that NicB.99?

Batten, insulate and board. Dot and dab in my opinion is rubbish.

Just because it's out of date, doesn't mean it's of no use. Keep them in a dry place, and offer them to any local plasterers who would use them.

If the leaking window cills etc are now waterproof, using bonding coat directly onto bricks internally is not a problem at all.

Use mesh.

As Alastair has said, if you try to patch roughcast, or any other rough surface, you'll see it a mile away. The reveals can be redone, but with care and patience, and by someone who knows what they're doing. Structural cracks on brickwork, render, roughcast etc, are a different kettle of fish...

what's wrong with the ceiling, eg, badly cracked, loose areas/coming away from the lath etc?