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Hi thanks again. don’t know what you mean my s plan. Sorry. I’ve been quoted as follows Parts required: Inlet Control Valve £60.38 plus VAT 9m 22mm pipe £45.00 plus VAT 3m 15mm pipe £7.50 plus VAT 15/22mm tundish £6.89 plus VAT No of Engineers: 1 = 1 apprentice Time Required: 6 Hours...

Ok. Thanks for advice. can you indicate what needs to change??

Thanks so far. here are some pics of what I have. White pipe is overflow. Red hand wheel is cold water supply This shows overflow coming off top of cylinder Overall view. expansion vessel off to right - not shown. Cheers C.

Hello. I have a water discharge issue via the overflow from my unvented cylinder. The cylinder is overflowing only when the cylinder is being heated. It appears the muppet who installed it did not do a proper job and will not return to fix. I have been told that the pressure relief valve...

Thanks for quick reply. How do i diagnose / test this? I have all the covers off the pipe work at the moment and can see the two motorised valves.

Can anyone shed any light on the following? Hardware: Eco tech 624 - System Boiler NOT combi with a pressurised HW tank. What appears to be happening is; When I have my boiler set to heat water only, it does so and appears to do so to the set temperature. I've messed about with the tank...

Well, thanks again for your help on this matter. it appears that for the £5 cost of the dual plate, plus some cable, I'll be good to go. I guess then final check will be to ensure that the 6mm2 cable goes right back to the consumer unit, which I am almost certain it does.

So, when shopping for oven and hob we found a job at 7.2 kw and an oven at 6kw. We were told that they would require separate 32amp supplies and also questioned the size of the cable to our existing oven. They also said they would not install the items if on arrival the existing installation...

Wow! Thanks for all your help!

So, so long as the hob and cooker are less than 15KW, I'm good to go with current installation?

Why do they not? Is it as simple as you dont have everything on at once? (all 4 hob rings, plus oven plus grill) But what if you do? Christmas day?

I'm now finding internet pages that tell me that a standard cooker installation with a 32A mcb / fuse can cope with 15KW? Can anyone explain?

Just done a few calcs.... If supply is 240V and max MCB is 32A, then max wattage of oven and hob would be 7.6KW, which means the above will cause an overload????

We have yet to choose the oven and hob. We are aware of 13 amp plug hobs, but also been told that they are not that powerful. A quick scan of the market shows that i could buy an oven with a rating of 5.9KW and hob at 7.2KW. It surprises me that the rating of the oven is less than the hob, but...

Looks like I will be having a new double oven and an induction hob. Both are likely to be 32 amp. I currently have one 32 amp mcb in the consumer unit that feeds the existing cooker. This should be fine for the new oven, but what about the hob? I know I could get a 13amp hob, but most are 32...

Update. Wife had the idea of heating the water via the immersion as it might expand the coil or soften the plastic wire. Yet right..... It worked.!!! Simples really. Just got to unblock the cool now!

Ok, This is related to a previous post. It appears that i have a blockage in the primary coil of my unvented cylinder. I know this as I have taken off the inlet and outlet pipes of the coil. The feed pipe is clear and the return is to. I cant blow through the coil - or suck - used a wet vac...

Thanks for input!! Have you seen my update?

Update. Repair man came today. 1. Said hw control valve was broken, so replaced it. But still no hot water. 2. Said air lock in primary coil so tried to vent and bleed. No good. So then tried to "drag" water up to the cylinder via a hose attached to the vent of the primary coil. Still no...

Thanks for reply. Yes, plenty of water pressure. If faulty valve can they be fixed easily?