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All types of zone valves have a manual ( or fill/drain lever according to maker :? ) 2 port has a permanent live, so flicking this switch will bring system on even if timer is off.. So you'd really need to fault find A three port has different powers coming from different sources so again...

Ok, somewhere in the house usually side of the cylinder there will be a wiring centre.. Inside there will be about 30 wires dependent on what colours have been used. You need to find the ch call from the timer to prove power is being supplied, next you need to find the ch thermostat call wire to...

Yep it is a logic, but badged up for the independent merchant.. Hence the name.. But it comes with a 2 year warranty bud as Agile says. Minimum by law now 2 year.

Could be a few things buddy. Could be your timer not sending power, your thermostat not transferring power or plain and simple a motorised valve not turning. You really need to be ok with electrical fault finding to find real problem. If you don't know about safely using a multimeter/ live...

Gas Valve, a burnt through hex from lack of correct servicing causing the wiring harnesses to short.. Sump leaking when condensing shorting board But from you saying another property I'm guessing you rent one/both. Minute you take combustion cover off to do resistance checks on fan etc you've...

Agile right bud, specially as the fan and fan speed board are DC voltage.. but you carry on poking around.. :shock: But before you actually take a belt.. Check P29 of your instructions.. Little hint.. The thick solid line is 240vac, thin lines are resistances, low voltages or VDC depending...

Just a thought here: But doesn't GSR state you must not fit second hand gas parts unless they are certified as in correct working order/spec ( granted in a gobbledygook manner like! ) Surely a second hand boiler is classed as a gas fitting?? Who's ceryifying this boiler and its components...

Are the motor open or motor closed valves? Obviously the later is held closed by the motor so could be the reason you still have flow.... Or some crude on your seatings allowing flow

It's not a question of how you can do it buddy it's why are you doing it? Have you got another stack external that this will connect into? Have you got a vent stack on any of your drainage system? If not then you need air admittance valves on your new stack which have to be higher than your...

A trusted local recommended RGI, Or try ringing the manufacturer.. Fixed price and guaranteed for a year.. Never ever ever ever ring S***sh gash sorry British gas for there ambiguous cheap deal with its policy of sell sell sell while on site to earn your money boys.. :shock:

Hiya buddy, Without wishing to sound rude your asking technical questions in an open forum.. If your an RGI there's the combustion chamber for that.. But if your not ( I appreciate you maybe technical minded) your asking us to guide a layman in linking safety devices. Granted for yourself...

Not to throw a spanner in the works but i regularly go on jv's with BG lads to these BG lads 'we've fitted several harness, several boards' and yet the damn led3 lockout keeps coming back Right have you checked the resistance of the plate ignitor? Anything more than 90 ohms boiler logic...

The ch flow thermistor which controls the frost protection is goosed. That's why it's firing, flashing frost protection at times. Thermistor drops in and outta calibration Or your plate heat ex is blocked but your plumber should be able to tell if that's ok by checking temp diff/rise across...

Dont trust the pressure gauge saying zero if it's stuck. I'm sporting a beautiful bruise on me chest for bein cocky with one. :roll: Cracked it open with bucket to catch the what I thought would be the dregs an bosh. Shaking, wet and slightly bemused engineer :lol:

Is it the m90 buddy? If so swap the flow thermistor, does numerous jobs. Including frost protection and are crap drop in and outta banding all the time. So heating will come on sporadically. Dhw won't work. Depending on how it feels

You've answered his question my friend without knowing which probably means you shouldn't really be messing inside boilers. B :shock: Basically boiler has a 75mm water seal trap, the u shape you mention is basically another trap that a dafty has fitted because the pipeline joins a soil...

Hiya bomb, Could be the hot surface ignitor not recognising flame so board thinks theres a fault and drops out, could be the burner not cross lighting to pilot burner so no detection being sensed. Could be the sensors which are a pain in the arrrse to. RGI time me thinks

Right first things first, are you competent to electrical fault find Mearly turning things on and off won't give an indication backfeeds etc are present. The isar/icos will show a demand I.e C flashing if 15v or more is present on your switched live. So it's a case of tracing power back...

In short Yeah.... System isnt airtight is it. If water can come out air can certaintly be pulled in as the system is in operation. And you dont know if theres other leaks on system as well. Was system pressure tested before changing to fully sealed? Is all pipework exposed? Or any under...

Or save your sen a lot of head scraching and just fit the Mechcanical RF timer if the customer aint to good with gadgets or if they like to play fit the RF digital ( let them play, cause it can get complicated..) But please if you do fit these, take the red link out or the boiler wont know...